How to Remove Rust from Car Parts

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Categories: How Tos | Cars & Transportation | Cars Trucks

  • There are various ways to remove rust from rusted ferrous car parts, including abrasion, acid solutions and electrolysis. Of these methods, electrolysis is the least destructive method for car parts since it removes only the rust and not the good metal. This method is particularly suited for parts that cannot be sanded or cleaned with a wire brush. It also works best on parts that have easily accessible surfaces. This instructional on how to remove rust from car parts covers the the electrolytic method of rust removal.

  • Tips

    • To clean the sacrificial anodes, you can reverse the application of the current.
    • If you see no bubbles forming on the rusted part, then you either have a poor connection or no power coming from your power supply.
    • If you wish to remove rust from a component that has severl iron parts, it is best to separate each and remove the rust for each component individually.
    • This method does not work well for removal of rust from interior areas such as engine cylinders.

  • Introduction

    Electrolytic removal of iron rust needs a DC, or direct current, power supply. If you have a small rusted part and you also have a battery charger, then you have what you need for starting this project. However, if you have large parts, you will need something that provides more electrical current, such as an electric welder. You will also need to have various things that are listed in step 1 to set up the tank solution in which the part is submersed. The instructions below will make clear the means of setting up this project and the precautions that you should take for setup and doing the electrolysis.

  • Step 1: Gather the Materials for the Electrolytic Bath

    You will need the following things to make the electrolysis setup:

    1. Battery charger, for small projects (such as a 3-5 gallon bucket); Welder, for large projects (such as a barrel). The larger the project, the more amperage is needed.
    2. Plastic container to hold the water, the sacrificial anodes and the rusted part (you can use a hole in the ground lined with plastic, as well)
    3. Plate metal for the sacrificial anode, iron is best. Do not use zinc-plated iron or stainless steel (forms chromium in solution- a hazardous waste)
    4. Water
    5. Washing soda (sodium carbonate, or soda ash) or Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
    6. Alligator clips and a crimping tool
    7. Wires of sufficient gauge to handle the current you are going to apply.
    8. Connectors for connecting multiple sacrificial anodes, or you can solder them.

  • Step 2: Setting up the Electrolytic Bath

    1. Set up the electrolytic bath in a well-ventilated area and away from open flames. This is necessary because the process creates hydrogen gas which is explosive.
    2. Removal of the rust is always on the side of the part that faces the direction of the sacrificial anode, so it may help to have sacrificial anodes place around the item in all four directions. In this case, you will have to connect the anodes electrically by either soldering or by use screws and eye connectors. Soldered connections are more permanent. Make sure that your connections are well above the water, otherwise they will oxidize quickly and be ruined.
    3. Suspend the part in the middle of the bath (if you have anodes surrounding it) or on the other side of the bath opposite the anode. The closer the part is to the anode, the faster it will oxidize, but make sure they do not touch.
    4. Add water to the container to cover the part.
    5. Add the baking soda or washing soda to the water, the minimal amount that you should add is 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. Using more speeds up the reaction.

  • Step 3: Performing the Electrolysis and Protecting the Finished Part

    1. Connect the positive lead from the battery charger or welder to the sacrificial anode.
    2. Connect the negative lead to the part you are cleaning.
    3. Make sure that your connections are secure and that the connection for the sacrificial anode is above the water.
    4. Turn on the battery charger or welder to the amperage needed.
    5. Check for the evolution of bubbles from the surface of the rusted part.
    6. If you are using only one sacrificial anode, you will need to turn the part around to remove the rust from the other side.
    7. When the rust is removed, you can brush off any surface debris and dry it quickly. The surface will be entirely black when all of the rust is removed.
    8. Seal the surface with a primer or any other product of your choice to prevent it from become rusty again.

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