Ferrets can make great pets, but they take special care and they aren't necessarily the right choice for everyone. These four-legged fuzzies require attention and human interaction, along with a large selection of toys to satisfy their endless curiosity and playfulness. Ferrets are known for getting themselves into all types of trouble imaginable, along with their unusual scent. With proper care, all of these things can be managed and you are left with nothing but a great, affectionate, loving pet.

Ferrets have been fully domesticated for thousands of years, and have even been kept as pets by the royal family. They are great hunters, often used to retrieve animals from burrows, and are even used to run cables through buildings.

Ferrets are closely related to skunks, polecats, black-footed ferrets, minks, weasels, otters, martens and badgers.

This page will teach you how to care for a ferret.

Before you start your life with a new pet, make sure a ferret is the right choice for you. Consider factors like:

1. Do you have time for a ferret? Ferrets require at least 30 minutes of 1 on 1 interaction and 4 hours out of the cage every day.
2. Do you have money for a ferret, including emergency expenses? Can you afford regular vet visits, and could you cover the cost if your ferret was injured?
3. Do you have the space for a ferret? Ferrets require large cages; several litter boxes, and plenty of toys.
4. Are you willing to put in the time to train a ferret? Ferrets can be rather stubborn and require patience from their owners.
5. Can you meet their basic every day needs, such as feeding and grooming?
6. Are you willing to completely ferret-proof your home? This could include blocking off rooms, which may cause an inconvenience.
7. Can you handle multiple pets? Ferrets work best in pairs or groups, and loneliness can cause serious problems
8. Do you have someone to look after your ferret if you can’t be home? Ferrets cannot be left alone and it is difficult to find temporary housing. Kennels that take dogs and cats are rarely willing to accept ferrets.
9. Are ferrets legal where you live? Remember that ferrets are illegal in some places such as New York City and California, so check your local laws.
10. Do you have access to ferret supplies? Many smaller pet stores don’t carry ferret supplies, so you may need to travel or buy online to obtain food and other supplies.

Carefully consider whether you are ready for the responsibility of ferrets. While they are fun and loving pets, they are not right for everyone.

A comfortable housing for your ferret friends should be set up before you bring your first critter home. Provide a comfortable area to sleep and hide in, as well as open area to roam. It is suggested that ferrets be provided a pitch black area to sleep in. Some studies suggest ferrets need at least 12 hours a day of pitch blackness so their bodies can produce melatonin, which helps prevent adrenal disease. http://www.kristenmcdonald.com/portfolio/web/ferretfacts/www.ferretfacts.com/ferret-adrenal-disease.html

When space allows, the best situation for your ferrets is to give them their own room. This room should be free from dangers, inescapable, and well ventilated. You should never leave ferrets in a closed off area like a closet. It should be light enough to see, but with a dark area to retreat to. In the case of their own room, it is a good idea to secure the door with a large piece of plexiglass, roughly half the height of the doorway. This allows your ferrets to see out so they don't feel trapped, without giving them the chance to escape, while providing an open area for ventilation. It can be easily cleaned when needed. Baby gates or screens offer the same protection, visibility, and ventilation, but they can often be climbed or ripped which does not provide a safe environment. An open cage should still be provided for each ferret so it can be disciplined and have a comfortable and safe place to retreat to and sleep.

Since giving a ferret its own room is not possible for many people, a large cage makes a fine alternative. Buy the largest cage money and space will allow – no less than 2 feet by 2 feet by 3 feet at absolute minimum for one ferret. Multilevel cages are best. Ensure the cage floor is solid rather than wired, as wire floors can hurt a ferret's feet. If an appropriate wire-bottom cage is found, simply cover the floors with carpeting or other fabric. With more popular styles of cage, pre-made wirefloor covers can often be found in pet stores or online stores such as eBay. When buying a used cage, ensure it is washed and rinsed thoroughly several times with hot, soapy water. Bars should be no more than 1 inch apart or the ferret may slip through, and the cage should come apart or have large doors to allow for cleaning. Make sure all doors secure properly, and there are no sharp edges or porous materials that cannot be cleaned.

Ferrets are clean animals, and as such, do not need the same bedding many other small animals need. They do not need wood chips or nesting material – this is likely to irritate the animal more than comfort it. The best thing to provide for a ferret is a few various blankets – old t-shirts, towels, and sheets would also be appropriate. Keep a few spares and wash at last once a week to keep smells to a bare minimum. Many ferrets also enjoy sleeping tubes or hammocks, so it is suggested at least one or two is provided. Having both and switching every few weeks will provide a more exciting home for your pet.

Ferret proofing should begin before you bring your ferret home; this is simply the process of thoroughly inspecting your home and removing or blocking off any dangers, same as you would with a baby. Dangers include both those that may hurt the ferret, and those the ferret may break or damage. Explore for not only your own perspective, but the ferret's perspective (close to the floor) as well. Most ferrets are reasonable climbers, so be sure to move anything breakable up at least 2 feet off the ground at minimum. Any holes, especially those leading to the inside of walls or cabinets, should be blocked off. Restrict access to open pipes, vents, and the space behind and under appliances. Ensure cupboards containing anything that could pose a threat be secured with a baby lock. Most ferrets are quite strong and can easily open a cupboard, and sometimes even a fridge or frictionless drawer. Ferrets can often access drawers (such as those in desks or dressers) by climbing up from underneath if there is no underside panel. Remember to either restrict the space under this furniture, or remove dangers from in the drawers and practice extreme caution when opening them. Because of the ferret’s strength, anything that could be tipped over with some amount of force should be secured so that its contents cannot harm your pet. Practice extra caution with multiple ferrets, as they often work together on tasks which require strength.

Electrical outlets can also pose a threat to a curious ferret when they decide to stick their claws in the hole, so secure all accessible outlets with baby-proof covers. Anything made of rubber, or anything else of small size should be removed from the floor to ensure it is not ingested. Secure or restrict access to all doors and windows so the ferret cannot escape outside or climb window screens, where it could fall.

Any time an appliance with moving parts is being used, such as an oven, dishwasher, washer, or dryer, ensure the whereabouts of your pet. There have been many accounts of ferrets getting into appliances through small holes in the back or bottom, which are then injured or even killed when the unsuspecting owner activates it. Also, practice extreme caution when using the oven, as a curious ferret can quickly jump inside. Fold out couches or armchairs can also be extremely dangerous, as ferrets often find a comfortable spot for a nap in the inside gears and springs, and are then crushed when the furniture is moved or adjusted.

When you first bring your ferret home, don't let it roam the house alone. Put your ferret on a leash and let it thoroughly explore each room. Take note of any risks such as small, unseen holes, and immediately find a solution. For several days, only give the ferret access to a single room at a time, and watch them closely. Any time you cannot be there to watch, either secure the ferret in its cage or in a small room you're completely sure is safe. Make sure you continue to closely monitor the ferret for several days, as it sometimes takes them awhile to find everything in the house. A simple, small house should not be as difficult to ferret proof as a large, complex house with many hiding spots, but whatever the situation, be sure to thoroughly check and recheck your home to ensure the safety of your pet.

There are many options for purchasing your ferret. The first decision to make is whether you'd like only one ferret, or multiple ferrets. Ferrets are very social animals and prefer to live in groups. Whenever possible, ferrets should be purchased in pairs. Larger groups of an almost unlimited number also work well together – they form cliques and friendships – but any more than a pair should be left to a practiced ferret owner that has experienced the entire lifespan their pet and is sure they can afford all medical expenses. When a single ferret is purchased, is it a bad idea to get one that has lived in a group of ferrets all its life, as it can suffer extreme separation anxiety and loneliness, and can literally be “bored to death”. In the case only one ferret is desired, you should try to find one that has lived all its life alone – though very few ferrets choose to be “independent”, they do exist, though they are rare, so it is not a good idea to pluck one from its friends.

Another choice to make is the colour of the ferret. In most cases, it is best to go for a plain, common, or natural coloured ferret, especially for a first time owner. Many “designer” colours (such as albino) can suffer from genetic mutations, blindness, disease, and more, which will only lead to a shorter lifespan and increased medical expense.

A great and responsible choice is to adopt your ferret from a shelter or ferret rescue. Just like cats, dogs, and bunnies, some people think it's a great idea to let their pets reproduce, but it soon gets out of hand and they offspring is turned into a shelter. Others turn their ferrets in when they realize the cost is too high or they are too much work. Adopting is cheap, and it gives animals in need a new hope. Shelter ferrets are usually a little older than pet store ferrets, meaning you can often avoid the trouble of potty training, nip training, spaying/neutering, descenting, and other tasks associated only with young ferrets.

A similar choice is to purchase directly from another owner, through a resource like Kijiji or Craigslist. This is a great choice, as not only do you get the same benefits as an adopted ferret, but also you will often get all of the supplies your ferret needs. Everything the ferret is used to is already provided, so the transition is easy, and prices are highly discounted. The previous owner can also provide you some insight into your pet's behaviors, likes, dislikes, and history, so you are more thoroughly prepared to provide its care.

Established breeders are another option – these people are devoted to the care and proper breeding of ferrets, rather than simply the money. Do some research and look for a well-respected breeder, rather than a cash-farm.

Finally, pet stores often carry ferrets, though pet stores should be chosen carefully. While some are responsible, many buy from ferret mills and cash farms, which can mean poorly bred and ill-treated pets. Please choose carefully and responsibly when purchasing your ferrets.

The right food is one of the most important aspects of a ferret's life. Ferrets are obligate carnivores, meaning their bodies can only digest meat, and other foods simply travel through their systems undigested. Grains, veggies and dairy should be avoided; though some types of fruit can be given in tiny amounts as a special, infrequent treat (this will be explained below). Because of a ferret’s, short digestive track, constant access to food is suggested – most ferrets will regulate their own food intake and will never overeat unless they feel threatened.

The absolute best diet to feed a ferret is to match their natural diet as closely as possible meaning small animals such as chickens and rabbits. This means their fur, bones, and organs must be consumed to provide the ferret with all its dietary needs. Ferrets are notoriously picky eaters, and are rarely convinced to try new foods or new consistencies of food. Unless they've been brought up on a raw diet from birth, it is nearly impossible to switch them over, and should only be attempted by those with excellent ferret knowledge, practice, research, and close veterinary supervision.

High quality ferret kibble is formulated very closely to a ferret's natural diet, and is healthy enough to replace a natural raw diet without any major lapses. There is argument whether it is worth even attempting a raw diet or not, but the choice is of course up to the ferret's owner. Many argue that a natural diet is better, simply because it is more natural and doesn't contain any unnatural chemicals.

When selecting a kibble, you should first enquire with the pet store, breeder, or previous owner about the ferret’s current diet, and continue feeding the same. You should never make a sudden switch to a ferret's food, as they will often refuse to eat it, and sometimes their bodies cannot handle the sudden change.

In the event the ferret's current diet is sub-par, a switch to a high quality kibble should be made slowly by increasing the ratio of the old food to new food gradually over several weeks. Start with only a few pieces of the new food each day, and slowly add more. Never make this switch in less than several weeks to allow your pet's system time to adjust.

When selecting a kibble, do not sacrifice quality for price. Cheap kibbles are often made with filler and very little meat. A high quality kibble will have high protein and fat, and low fiber, with no vegetables in the ingredients list, and grains listed only towards the bottom of the ingredients list. Look for a kibble with at least 40% protein, 20% fat, and under 3% fiber. Close to this will do, but more protein and fat are always better where available. Avoid fish, either as an ingredient in kibble or as part of a raw diet – it is not the same as other meats and will cause your ferrets feces and body to become extremely odorous. If you are unsure, do research online, and enquire with your local pet store and vet as to the best choice for your pet.

Constant access to fresh water is also necessary. Never leave a ferret without water, and change water frequently. Select a heavy bowl with large capacity. Ferrets will usually try to tip their bowls over, spilling much of the water. Though they may only drink a few ounces, they will lose much of over the edges of the bowl. Change the water frequently, and clean the bowl often to prevent the spread of bacteria. Don't give ferret water you wouldn't drink yourself. Remember that ferrets don't just drink their water; they also use it to clean their faces and paws, and to avoid choking when they eat their food too quickly. Ferrets can become clumsy when eating and often need a drink to wash the food down their throats. Without access to water, the ferret could choke on its food.

Treats can be purchased at most pet stores, and should be given in moderation. Most resemble ferret kibble with different flavorings such as chicken, raisin, or peanut butter. Other treats include chewy disks or sticks, or gelatin treats roughly the consistency of a gummy worm. The best treats should be as healthy for a ferret as their regular food – remember to give only in moderation, according to the directions on the package. Small amounts of some fruits can be given as an occasional treat. Good choices are apples, pears, or peaches. A ferret should not be allowed to have more than ¼ teaspoon of fruit per week, and should be given in tiny slivers, as it cannot be digested and will simply move through the body whole. Never feed grapes or bananas, as they can be toxic to animals; also avoid citrus fruits. Though raisins are often given as treats, they are best avoided. Not only do they come from toxic grapes, they cannot be digested properly, sometimes causing intestinal blockage, which can lead to the need for surgery, or even death.

Ferrets are often compared to kittens; always exploring, playing and looking for something new. This gets them into trouble, so care should be given to only provide the ferret with toys that are safe. Kitten toys work well, however you must remember that they are designed for a cat. Ferrets have significantly sharper teeth and stronger jaws, so they require a solid toy that can’t be ruined. Avoid bells or small balls that could be pulled off and potentially swallowed – rubber should also be avoided as it can be chewed up and digested, causing blockages. Also consider that a ferret’s mouth is considerably smaller than a cat’s so they may not be able to grab a larger toy properly. Some great choices are balls or plushies with bells or squeakers inside.

You should also allow your pet the chance to act on its instincts, which include tunneling and digging. Dig boxes are popular option – simply fill a large box with something the ferret can dig and tunnel in. You may want to place it in the bathtub, on a large sheet, or on a tile floor for easy clean up. Great options to fill a dig box are dirt, snow, ping pong balls, or biodegradable packing peanuts (ensure they are the type that dissolve in water). Hiding treats or toys in the box will make it even more fun.

A pan of water in the tub or kitchen floor can also be great fun and can keep the ferret cool on a hot day. Just make sure they can easily climb out incase they get too cold. Some ferrets like ice floated in the water they can chase, or float treats in cups or bottle caps as a game. Not every ferret likes water, so let them decide whether to get in or not.

As digging and tunneling are primal instincts, create an area that can match this instinct. Long dryer tubes are fun, and many ferrets will spend lots of time just running back and forth through them. Tubes are even better if they crinkle or make noise – these can be found at pet stores. A maze created out of a large box is also fun – in general, anything the ferret can dig, slither, and explore through. Adding treats and toys to the mix just makes it better, as does anything that makes noise. Crinkle sacs and tubes are some of a ferrets favorite play things.

Ferrets are rough players. They love to be thrown, flipped, or tipped over – any sort of mock battle is fun. Of course, be aware of your ferret’s limits and be careful not to hurt them if you decide to play rough. Though they are tough little creatures, they could still be injured by a high fall or tumble. A light toss onto a bed or pillow is enough to get them dancing around. Flipping a ferret onto its back and tickling its belly will usually make it go crazy – try putting your ferret in a pillowcase and grab it from outside. Your ferret is unlikely to be able to control its excitement.

Try initiating a game of chase. Chase your ferret, flip it onto its back, and tickle it. Backup and allow it to chase you.

When ferrets get very excited, they’ll perform a dance often called the “weasel war dance”, “ferret war dance” or “happy weasel dance”. For someone who’s never seen a ferret’s dance, it can be intimidating or even threatening, as it can appear that the ferret is preparing to attack. The ferret will arch its back, and raise its tail. It will open its mouth (sometimes nipping gently). The ferret will then move erratically, usually shuffling or hopping to the back or side, or sometimes slithering its body uncontrollably. This can be frightening, but it’s just the ferret’s way of showing happiness.

This is a very vulnerable time for a ferret, as they unable to control where or how they are moving. It’s quite common for ferrets to run into walls or other obstacles, fall off ledges or down stairs, or get stuck between furniture. The more you continue to amuse your ferret, the longer its dance will continue, though they will often stop once they realize they are alone or they have backed behind or under furniture. When they are in this state of play, just approaching them is enough to send them into another frenzy of weasel dances. If you see your ferret is nearing danger, such as a flight of stairs of a high ledge, immediately back away and remove the stimulation. This will give them time to stop before they injure themselves badly. A high fall can sometimes be enough to break a ferret’s bones, but they will most often remain uninjured.

Ferrets are smart, and due to certain instincts, they can be taught to use a litter box fairly easily, given a little help and patience from their owners.

Ferrets naturally choose to go in corners where they feel protected. They will rarely use the bathroom in an open space. This makes it relatively easy to try and guess which corners a ferret will choose to go in. Look for corners enclosed on 2 or 3 sides, possibly with head coverage (at least 2 feet high) – an area such as the space under a desk is a great example. Place litter boxes in places you think the ferret may go. As ferrets have rather short digestive systems, they usually have some urgency when they need to go to the bathroom. Because of this, you can’t just have one litter box in the corner of the basement such as you would with a cat. The ferret wouldn’t be able to make it to the litter box, and would simply select another appropriate corner to do its business in. It is suggested you place a litter box in each room the ferret is allowed, a minimum of 1 for every 500 square feet of floor space. It may be unnecessary to have a box in rooms such as the kitchen or bathroom if another box is close by.

Select a litter box which is big enough for the ferret to fit its entire body in. They should have a low front for easy access, with high sides and back for protection. While small animal litter boxes can be found at most pet stores, other good options are cat litter boxes with a slot cut out in the front, or disposable tin trays. Some ferrets also appreciate covered litter boxes.

When selecting a litter, remember that ferrets, unlike cats, do not bury their waste. A sandy litter may irritate the ferret. Look for a clumping litter, or a pellet litter. A good option is recycled newspaper pellets. This serves its purpose and is made only of recycled newspaper, which is good for the environment.

Most ferrets do not like to use a litter box that is too dirty, as they don’t like to get their feet in their waste. If there is too much that they can’t avoid stepping on it, they will find somewhere else to go. To ensure the best success rate, clean each litter box regularly; scooping every day every day works well.

Once a ferret becomes familiar with the area, it will choose its favorite places to use the bathroom, whether these are places with litter boxes or not. It is quite likely there will be a few mistakes – simply clean these up well with a cleaner. If a ferret chooses a corner in which you don’t have a box, it’s best to just move one there. It’s likely they may not use all of their boxes – if a box remains clean for a few weeks with no use, you can get rid of it. If your ferret has chosen too many corners or a corner, which cannot have a litter box, there are a few tricks to make it go in a more appropriate place. The first is to place something there the ferret won’t want to go on, such as its water or food dish, or a blanket. When a ferret is preparing to use the bathroom, they will sniff the area, quickly turn around, arch their back, and lift their tail. If you see a ferret doing this somewhere they shouldn’t, it’s the time to stop them and move them to a box. If you catch the ferret in the act of going somewhere it shouldn’t, or simply getting ready, say “NO!”, quickly grab the ferret and place it in it’s litter box. If you don’t catch the ferret in the act, it will not know what is going on if you try to punish it.

Each time you let the ferret out of its cage, place it in its litter box to teach it where the boxes are. Giving a treat each time you see the ferret using the box will reinforce the idea that it is a good place to go. Remember to keep litter boxes clean, and to clean up messes.

Sometimes a ferret can get into a bad habit of going somewhere it shouldn’t, and it’s hard to break. This is when your patience is key. Ferrets often go as soon as they wake up from a long sleep. If your ferret is just coming out of the cage after waking up, confine it to a litter box for several minutes – be persistent, they ferret will try to run away, but keep placing it back in the box. If the ferret does not go after several minutes, let it go, but follow and watch closely. If you see the ferret preparing to go in another corner, again confine it to the box and wait until it goes. As soon as it does, reward it with a treat and lots of praise. If you catch an accident, punish it with a short time out in the cage (2 minutes) or scruff the ferret and say “NO!” loudly. If these fail, try placing other objects in the selected place or block off the area entirely. You could also move furniture around (where applicable) so the ferret is forced to choose a new location. If none of these will work, puppy pads will make clean up easier, however, keep reinforcing the right and wrong places to go, and the ferret should eventually learn.

While there is some instinct that can be harnessed to make training easy, ferrets can get into habits and are too stubborn to change their ways – great patience is needed to help it learn the right way.

Nip training is a very important stage in ensuring you have a pet that is friendly and safe to you, others, and other pets. Young ferrets in the wild, as with other animals, would play with other by mock-fighting. This is not only fun for the animal, but provides practice for hunting and fighting, gives the animal exercise, and fine-tunes their skills. Animals need to act on their basic instincts, just as they would in nature, until they are trained otherwise. When ferrets play with others, they bite each other; not hard enough to injure, but with a reasonable amount of pressure so the other can feel it. Ferrets have much thicker skin than humans, as well as a layer of fur, so they can bite each other fairly hard without causing injury. They don’t understand that their human friends are not ferrets as well, and that amount of pressure is hurting us. To curb this behavior, you need to let the ferret know you are in pain. There are several easy ways to alert your ferret to its mistake.

• Make a loud noise – Loudly and sharply say “NO!” This is a very low-level method, and may not be effective until you’ve used another method to let the ferret know it is wrong. It is useful to remind the ferret of the rules.

• Scruffing – To scruff your ferret, simply grasp the loose skin on the back on its neck and lift the animal slightly. This shouldn’t hurt the ferret when done correctly, but will alert it to its mistake. To avoid causing pain, don’t hold the ferret off the ground for more than a second or two, and don’t squeeze too tightly. Bring the ferret up to your face and tell it “NO!". You can also drag the ferret along the ground on its back for a few inches while it is being scruffed – this replicates how a mother ferret would teach it’s young in the wild.

• Bitter Spray – An effective product available at most pet stores is a bitter spray. It causes a terrible taste when it gets in the animals mouth, and deters them from biting or chewing. By simply spraying your hands before playing with your ferret and letting it give you a few nips, it won’t take long at all before it will learn to keep its mouth off of you. You can also use the same product around your house on anything you don’t want chewed or stolen if you have a ferret that likes to chew.

It is up to you whether your tolerance will allow light pressure from the ferret, or if it is not allowed to put its teeth on you whatsoever. Ferrets can be trained to do either, but make sure training is kept consistent and all people helping to train your pet enforce the same rules, otherwise the animal may get confused.

Hitting or being violent with a ferret is not the answer – the ferret will simply see this as a fight and attempt to fight back, which can lead to a more violent personality.

Ferrets only require a small amount of regular grooming. Though they are long-haired, they only shed twice per year – once in the spring to lose their winter coats, and once in the winter to lose their thin sleek coats and make room for a thicker warm coat. During these times, a ferret should be regularly brushed with a pet brush to remove extra hairs. As much hair as possible should also be removed from your house and the cage. Give the ferret a hairball supplement such as FerretLax. Ferrets cannot cough up hairballs, so they must either be passed or they sit in the stomach and cause a blockage.

Nails must also be tended to or they can get uncomfortably long and splinter. Once a week is usually appropriate, but you may find your ferret requires more or less frequent clipping. A simple pet nail kit is available at any pet store – regular nail clippers may also be used, but they are not as easy. The ferret’s nails contain a small blood vessel. If the nails are clipped too short, it can cause great pain and a fair amount of bleeding. To avoid hitting the vein, clip the nails under a light where you can see the vein clearly, and aim at least ¼ inch above it to prevent accident. If your ferret has dark nails where the vein cannot be seen, clip only enough that the ferret is not uncomfortable. This vein can sometimes get longer if a ferret's nails go unclipped, meaning you can not get the nails as short as they should be. Frequent clipping will cause the vein to recede.

Ferrets will almost never co operate with nail clipping. To make it a little easier, make it fun for them. Use a liquid treat such as Ferretone and put some on their belly; the ferret will be so preoccupied with licking up the treats, you’ll be free to manipulate their nails however you please. Avoid doing this during shedding seasons or your ferret will be ingesting too much hair. You can also try giving a small treat after each nail, but remember you have 20 nails to do, so whole treats may be too much. As the ferret gets used to clipping, you could try a treat for each paw. You may also want to give the ferret a break when it gets restless and continue clipping the other nails later. If your ferret gets into deep dead sleeps (a state of semi hibernation some ferrets will enter during naps), the nails can be clipped without the ferret even waking up – this is a great time to do all grooming. If your ferret is uncooperative, wrap them in a towel or blanket with just their head and one paw sticking out. You may need an extra person to help you, but it will leave the ferret unable to fight back and struggle. If all else fails, you’ll need to bring the ferret to a vet or groomer and they may need to be sedated.

Your ferret’s ears should be tended to roughly once per week. Ferrets build up a yellow-brown wax. Use wipes to remove as much of this as you can. Dark red, dark brown, or wax that resembles coffee grinds can mean your ferret has ear mites, and all ferrets should be treated for them at the vet immediately. If you suspect ear mites but are unsure, watch closely for several days. Ear mites will cause itching, head shaking, and that thick discharge like coffee grinds to develop much quicker than normal wax.

The teeth are the final task that requires regular attention. Ferrets can develop many problems with bad teeth, and while most can be prevented with regular brushing, some may require a vet’s attention. A finger brush, kitten brush, or baby toothbrush can be used along with a pet toothpaste to gently clean the ferrets teeth.

Contrary to popular belief, ferrets do not require regular bathing, as it will not remove their scent. A ferret’s scent is produced through the oils in their skin. If this oil is never washed away, there is little reason to produce more. If the ferret is being bathed and the oils are being washed away, they will over-produce more oils to soothe their dry skin, thus causing more scent. Ferrets groom themselves daily, so the only reason to bathe a ferret is if they get into something sticky or dirty that cannot easily be brushed out. If they do require a bath, use warm water and a shampoo/conditioner made specifically for ferrets to prevent dry skin and itchiness. If you feel your ferret needs a more regular clean up, try using unscented baby-wipes over your ferret’s fur; however, this is not necessary. Unless absolutely necessary, limit baths to 3 times per year.

Trips to the vet are an important part of giving your pet a long and healthy life. A good ferret vet is rare and often difficult to find, so do some research as to an appropriate vet in your area, and don’t be afraid to travel. Remember that just because a vet can see ferrets, doesn’t mean they know a particularly large amount. Be sure to select a vet you trust, and use word of mouth to find a vet with a good reputation.

Very young or very old ferrets should visit the vet for a standard check up once every 6 months. From the ages of 2-5, a ferret in good health needs only to visit the vet once a year, given there are no other concerns. There are a range of basic shots which should be given once a year – your ferret will also be thoroughly examined for any lumps in their bodies, unusually high or low weight, ear or teeth issues, and sometimes issues with nails. Other tests can be performed as requested. Be sure to ask your vet about any concerns you may have, and always bring your ferret in at first signs of a problem.

Be sure you are aware of the nearest emergency vet in case your ferret has a major injury that needs immediate attention.