If you don't have a sewing machine, or if you need to hem pants that have large bell bottoms, or are made of silky, slithery material, then you need to know how to hem pants without a sewing machine. This page has full instructions for this, and a video that demonstrates the actual pinning and stitching process. The first step on the page tells you how to measure large bell bottom or slinky pants to make sure the hem will be the correct length.
You can save a lot of money on alterations by knowing how to hem pants without a sewing machine. It is not difficult; it just takes "know how". The first time you try this it might take a few hours. Once you know what you are doing, you can hem pants in less than an hour. Before you begin to hem pants, you need to get: a cloth tape measure, a needle, thread that matches the darkest color in your pants, and about 20 pins. The video featured on this page shows which kind of pins you need, and how to do the hand stitch that will not show when you are done. Read down the rest of this page to see all three steps to hemming pants: 1) measure 2) pin 3) sew.
How To Hem Pants By Hand
The alterations maven at Deluxe Clothing store demonstrates how to hem pants by hand. She explains that it is good to fold the hem over twice so that no unraveling edges show. She explains that it is good to begin with a triple loop through the fabric in case the knot on the end of the thread eventually pulls through. She demonstrates how to do this. She demonstrates the stitch used all around the hem. It is especially useful to see a demonstration of how little one needs to go through the main portion of the pant leg, when stitching a hem.
Step 1: Measure
The first step in hemming pants is to measure where your hem needs to be. If your pants are stiff and the bottom is not belled out, then you can measure where the hem should be by trying on the pants with the shoes you plan to wear with them, and just turning the cuffs up to the length that you want. This is demonstrated in a video on the page how to hem pants. If your pants are made of silky, slithery material, or if they have large bell bottoms, then the easiest way to find where the hem should be is to measure the inseam. This is the seam that starts in the crotch and goes to the bottom of the pants. If you know your correct inseam length, then just use a tape measure to measure the inseam on the pants that you want to hem. Mark by placing a pin where the pants you want to hem should end.
If you don't know your correct inseam length, there are two ways you can proceed.
1) Have a friend measure your inseam and mark it for you while you are wearing the pants that you want to hem. This way, you can stand up straight and your friend will get an accurate measurement. Have your friend measure along the back crease of your pants. Have your friend mark the place where the pants should stop with a pin.
2) If it is the last minute and you are alone, then get your correct inseam measurement from some pants you already have. Make sure the pants you get your inseam measurement from fit similarly to the pants you are hemming. If the pants you are hemming fit loosely, use some loose fitting pants to get your inseam measurement from. Just measure from the crotch to the bottom of the pant leg along the seam there. Measure the same distance on the pants that you want to hem, and mark the spot with a pin.
Step 2: Pin
Now that you know the correct distance from the crotch to the bottom of the pants leg, it is time to fold and pin the entire hem down.
- Turn the pants inside out.
- Using the marked place as a guide, fold the rest of the end of both pants legs the same amount.
- Pin the ends into place. You may have to move the pins so that the hem folds down smoothly.
- Once it is all pinned down smoothly, turn the pants back right side out and try them on.
- Adjust your pins as needed until the hems on both pants legs are just right.
Step 3: Sew
Once the hems are pinned down smoothly and correctly, it is time to sew them.
- Turn the pants back inside out.
- Thread a needle with thread that matches the darkest color in your pants. Tie one end of the thread, and let the other end go through as you sew.
- Anchor the knotted end of your thread at one of the seams, where it is strongest.
- Stitch around the hem, making the large part of your stitch on the inside, and barely going through the main part of the pants on the outside. The video featured on this page demonstrates how to do this.
When you are done, the hem should be sewn in place, but the stitches should not be visible from the outside.
Tips
- Use thread that matches the darkest color in your pants.
- If you don't know your inseam length, measure the inseam on some pants that fit similarly.
- There is no need to use double thread for a hem.
- Tie a knot at the end of your thread, and let the other end of the thread go through as you sew.
- Barely go thorough to the outside of the pants at all, just enough to hold them, a few threads with each stitch.
- Make the long part of your stitches from the inside of the pants.
