Horses are large, powerful animals that we as humans are responsible for training throughout their lifetime. The best time to teach a horse is when they are small. Although a weanling of any breed is often still big, it is best to remember that a horse that is not halter broke is a problem and could possibly be dangerous. You want to preserve a horses friendly and trusting nature by knowing how to halter break a weanling in a way is going to develop their relationship with humans, and not make them fearful and distrustful for the rest of their lives. Halter training is a definite must if you are going to purchase a foal. It could also come in handy if you are manager of a boarding stable, working at a breeding farm or learning to be a horse trainer.

When approaching a session with a weanling, plan out your lesson and so that you establish dominance in a fair way, get your point across, have ample opportunity to reward, and preserve your weanling's positive attitude towards work. http://www.horsekeeping.com/horse_training/halter_training_draft_or_warmblood_foal.htm Proper haltering procedure will develop good habits in your horse and help to avoid accidents.http://www.horsekeeping.com/horse_training/halter_training_draft_or_warmblood_foal.htm

One of the most important things when dealing with horses at any age is body language. Horses are insecure followers at best and need a person who is going to be strong, confident, and consistent in their training. A person should move quietly around horses, but not anxious expecting at any moment something bad to happen.

Only one handler should be allowed to do the training until the weanling is well into its learning curve and understands what is expected of it. After this point, a variety of handlers is good to desensitize the weanling to other people and the way they ask things.

This guide will teach you how to break a weaning foul.

Before you begin your lesson be sure to have the equipment needed and very close at hand. There are some very simple things that you need.

1. an unbreakable weanling halter
2. a strong lead rope with a strong snap.
3. a sharp pocket knife
4. sturdy gloves that fit well

There are many discussions as to what type of halter is best.

Types of Halters:

1. Break away halters: There are break away halters that are designed to break if your horse gets in a bind. These are designed for horses that are hard to catch and wear their halters in the field. It is never a good idea to leave your horse in the pasture with a halter, but there are some extreme cases where this is a must. It would simply be best to address the hard to catch problem. This is not a good choice for a teaching halter. If the horse learns that they can set back and break equipment it may install a life long habit of a horse that pulls back at every chance they get. Once a horse is grown with this habit it is very hard to stop it.
2. Leather halter: Leather is a good choice if the leather is new and all snaps and buckles are in good repair. It is hard to break but still breakable if there is any dry rot or weakness of any kind. Once again, you do not want your horse starting a bad habit.
3. Rope Halter: Rope halters are becoming quite popular in the western horse world and are great for the trained horse. However this is a halter that is tied where most buckle and if a horse sits back on the knot it may become difficult to remove, especially if there is an emergency.
4. Nylon Halter: This is a good choice for training the weanling. Once again this halter should be in good repair with the halter being supple and the buckles easy to work.

There are several different kinds of lead ropes to choose from as well. The main types are nylon and cotton.

Types of Lead Ropes:

1. Nylon lead ropes: These lead ropes come in many attractive colors and bright patterns. They are also quick to burn ones hands if the rope slides through, they may get stiff and short as they age.http://www.horse.com/item/Cotton-Lead-with-Bolt-Snap/SLT700013/
2. Cotton Lead Ropes: These stay soft well into their lives, they are easy on the hands in case of a pull back, but they do have a tendency to shred and get thin in well used places, such as where you ties your knot. This may be your best choice for a training tool.

You will also want to look at the snaps that you will have on your lead rope . There are bull snaps and bolt snaps. Bull snaps are a heavy-duty snap that takes a little dexterity with opening and closing. It is very difficult to break. The bolt snaps seems to break a little easier but is faster to undo in a pinch. Both will work for training but be aware of their differences, and maybe even try both to see which one you prefer.

A sharp pocketknife comes in very handy around the barn in any situation and is relatively inexpensive. Some have a clip feature that allows you to secure it to your waistband, inside a boot, or a back pocket. If an emergency occurs and you need to cut a rope a handy pocket knife may be a life saver.

Sturdy gloves, either leather or cotton, may save your hands a nasty rope burn in case of a pull back, which is natural for a learning horse to do, and will give you a little extra grip on a rope. These gloves should not be bulky or loose. Wearing gloves may take some getting used to when learning to do buckles.

When starting a lesson for the first time it may be best to work in an enclosed area, such as a roomy stall or a round pen. This doesn't give the horse the chance to run away causing you to spend the next half day trying to catch it. Hopefully some basic ground work will have been done with the foal and you are not starting from scratch. Catching is another lesson altogether.

Remember before you start to keep your lessons to about 30 minutes at a time.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-x4CUVFhkg You may do this several times per day but the horse need to absorb what was taught in the lesson and a weanling can only handle so much.

When approaching the horse do so from the near or left side, approaching quietly and confidently. A hesitant approach may cause the horse to shy away as much as an overly pushy one. Scratch your horse’s withers and offer him a treat. Do not grab your horse and proclaim victory, remember you want to do this more than once.

Walking away a few times may pique your horses curiosity and actually draw him to you, always approach in the same workman like manner.

1. Approach the horse from the near or left side.
2. Hold the halter and buckle in your left hand along with the lead rope gently looped up. DO NOT wrap the lead rope around your hand.
3. With your right hand, scratch the weanling on its withers and slowly, but confidently, move your hand up his neck and across to the right side.http://www.horsekeeping.com/horse_training/halter_training_draft_or_warmblood_foal.htm
4. Use your left hand to give the end of the lead rope to your right hand, making a loop around the throat latch that is held in your right hand. Right now, your horse is effectively caught in a quiet manner. If the horse tries to pull away simply pull the horses head towards you while pushing your elbow into his neck.http://www.horsekeeping.com/horse_training/halter_training_draft_or_warmblood_foal.htm
5. Use your left hand to hand the crown piece, or buckle end of the halter, to your right hand. If using a rope halter this is the end without the loop.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-x4CUVFhkg
6. With your left hand bring the nose band up and then buckle or tie the halter.
7. Praise your horse greatly with pats and a soothing, gentle voice.
8. Unhalter your horse, step away a minute, and then repeat.
9. For the first lessons do not try to lead your horse. Take one-step at a time to make haltering an enjoyable experience.

The Wrong Way to put on a halter:

Sometimes you may see someone approach a horse head on and try to put the nose band on first. The very act of walking straight towards your horse causes it to back up, and then trying to put a halter on just under his nose(where he can't see), causes him to raise his head. The overall effect is a horse backing up and evading the halter.