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I have 7 labradors, all of them around the size of your dog, and as a vet tech I can tell you that if I was concerned that one of my dogs ate poison or a rodent that had been poisoned, I would immediately induce vomiting just to be safe. Most likely the amount of poison left in the mouse's body would not be lethal to a 70# dog, but weirder things have happened. I've seen an 8 week old lab puppy live through ingesting an entire box of Decon, while an adult lab died from just one lick! It depends on your dog and how their body handles the poison. Anytime I believe one of my dogs has swallowed something harmful, like this, I induce vomiting by giving them a cap full of Peroxide. I continue having them vomit until it is only bile that they are throwing up. If you see a lot of green or blue coloring then you know that they have too much Decon in their stomach. If they seem lethargic, are having seizures, are drooling, or are bleeding from their nose, mouth, or rectum then get them to an Emergency vet as soon as possible or they will die.
We live in the country and do get mice when winter time comes, because they are searching for a warm place. I use those clean mouse traps that enclose the mouse inside of the trap when it snaps and then you just throw the trap away. This way my curious labs don't eat the mouse carcass, the carcass doesn't end up decomposing in my wall or attack, and I don't have to put poison out where one of my dogs could get it.
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"A friend had a dog that ate mouse poo after the mouse had eaten the poison. The dog almost died." -- http://www.indypaws.com/post/index/11908
If ingesting even the EXCREMENT of a poisoned mouse is enough to be life-threatening to a pet dog, I don't even want to imagine how much worse it could be to eat the mouse itself!
Maybe animal control or a veterinarian could advise you on a dog-friendly way to take care of the mouse problem. I suggest you ask one or both of them.
Source(s):
http://www.indypaws.com/post/index/11908
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The reason its dangerous is that mice die pretty quickly on D-Con and don't have a chance to fully digest the poison. Then when a dog eats it, it will digest the leftover poison. I would definitely recommend not using poisons to take care of your mouse problem. We had a rat and a mouse in the house a while back and the standard snap traps are the most effective way to handle them. Try to isolate them in one room if possible and keep all food and crumbs out of sight or in the garbage. Make it impossible for them to get any food. Then lay out the snap traps with easy cheese on them. Eventually, they won't be able to resist. Also, place the traps along the walls in paths that you think they'll be likely to follow. I put mine behind the couch along the wall. That way the dogs couldn't get snapped, and I figured it was a likely path in my house for a mouse to follow. I got them both in about 4 days. It takes them a while to get desperate enough, because they're smart critters. Just keep the house really clean and you'll get them.
Good luck!
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Source(s):
http://petmd.com/dog/emergency/digestive/e_multi_anticoagulant_poisoning
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offthedome
I hope your dogs will be okay.
Source(s):
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38.l1313&_nkw=riddex&_...
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If "catch and release" is not an option, good old mouse traps do wonders. Although I have had a time or two where the trap did not instantly kill the mouse (the two were apparently jumpers... they jumped when the trap triggered and were killed but not "caught" by the trap, so I don't know if it was instant or not), for the most part they are instant termination of the pest.
I wish you well and good luck on your choice.
Source(s):
Experience.
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Also, rats have a habit of sneaking away to somewhere strange (like inside a wall or behind immovable objects). The smell can apparently be quite ... stifling for quite a long while until the rat carcass dessicates or is eaten up by its compadres. For me, the risk of rat poison doesn't outweigh the benefits.
I use covered snap traps for my mice problem in the house and set them high off the floor or behind in areas where the mice can travel, but my puppy has a hard time getting to.
Note: Mice do in fact like cheese. The mice in my area like provolone. But they really *die* for peanut butter (crunchy organic).
Source(s):
Personal experience.
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Answered Question
M$1
December 24, 2008 09:16 PM
What happens if a dog eats a mouse that was killed when it ate mouse poison?
D-Con and similar mouse poisons like kill mice with Anticoagulants. The labels warn against leaving the poison where children and pets can access it. I have two dogs who have been known to eat mice--live and dead. If we use D-Con to get rid of the mouse population in our house--and the mice die outside where the dogs can find them, is it a problem? Or is the quantity of poison in the mouse either too small, or degraded enough, that it won't hurt my 70 pound labs?
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| December 26, 2008 02:32 AM |
We live in the country and do get mice when winter time comes, because they are searching for a warm place. I use those clean mouse traps that enclose the mouse inside of the trap when it snaps and then you just throw the trap away. This way my curious labs don't eat the mouse carcass, the carcass doesn't end up decomposing in my wall or attack, and I don't have to put poison out where one of my dogs could get it.
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Other Answers (11)
December 24, 2008 09:27 PM
Apparently, it can be very dangerous. It's difficult to find information on dogs eating mice that have been poisoned, rather than eating the poison itself, but I found an account even MORE detached than your (hopefully) hypothetical, and it doesn't look good at all: "A friend had a dog that ate mouse poo after the mouse had eaten the poison. The dog almost died." -- http://www.indypaws.com/post/index/11908
If ingesting even the EXCREMENT of a poisoned mouse is enough to be life-threatening to a pet dog, I don't even want to imagine how much worse it could be to eat the mouse itself!
Maybe animal control or a veterinarian could advise you on a dog-friendly way to take care of the mouse problem. I suggest you ask one or both of them.
Source(s):
http://www.indypaws.com/post/index/11908
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December 24, 2008 09:32 PM
I think it's definitely something to be concerned about. Ant poison, rat poison and several other household poisons are very dangerous to dogs. The reason its dangerous is that mice die pretty quickly on D-Con and don't have a chance to fully digest the poison. Then when a dog eats it, it will digest the leftover poison. I would definitely recommend not using poisons to take care of your mouse problem. We had a rat and a mouse in the house a while back and the standard snap traps are the most effective way to handle them. Try to isolate them in one room if possible and keep all food and crumbs out of sight or in the garbage. Make it impossible for them to get any food. Then lay out the snap traps with easy cheese on them. Eventually, they won't be able to resist. Also, place the traps along the walls in paths that you think they'll be likely to follow. I put mine behind the couch along the wall. That way the dogs couldn't get snapped, and I figured it was a likely path in my house for a mouse to follow. I got them both in about 4 days. It takes them a while to get desperate enough, because they're smart critters. Just keep the house really clean and you'll get them.
Good luck!
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December 24, 2008 09:35 PM
This is a very serious problem with poison baiting, and yes, your dogs can die from eating poisoned mice. I've had to bring our dog into the vet for this problem before because people in our building were using d-con poison traps for a mouse/rat problem. If memory serves is called secondary poisoning, and it can cause serious illness and even death. If you need d-con traps I would suggest using the traps/ t-rex type things that chomp down on them. At least this way if your dog finds a treat you'll know it won't be poisonous.
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December 24, 2008 09:43 PM
I found an article that says basically it's not a big deal if your dog eats rats, especially at 70lbs, but it can be if your dog eats a bigger animal that ate the poison. So you should watch and make sure you don't put the poison out for something bigger.
Source(s):
http://petmd.com/dog/emergency/digestive/e_multi_anticoagulant_poisoning
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offthedome
December 24, 2008 09:45 PM
To everyone else, I recommend reading the question about the type of poison used, and then do your research.
Tip offthedome for this comment
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December 24, 2008 10:22 PM
I just read your source, and the way I read it even the mild poisons could possibly make a dog sick for a week. You are absolutely correct though that the original question specified a particular type of poison and the other answers replied with hearsay about poisons in general. I agree that a 70 lb dog is unlikely to be harmed by an occasional mouse that has died of one of the milder anticoagulents. But if you have the poison in the house, are dealing with a big infestation, or do the poisoning long term, then you are taking a risk with your pets and children.
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December 24, 2008 10:44 PM
I found some tips online:
I live in town, so if you live on large property or acreage where your dog runs free the following probably won't be as applicable to you. But if you have a smaller amount of property or your dogs are confined most of the time in a fenced area the following might be helpful:
Rats can find their way into your yard through digging or climbing, despite our best efforts to keep them out. There are still a few things we can do that can help with this.
1) ELIMINATE OUTDOOR FOOD: They are primarily attracted to food in your yard. This includes dropped seed from bird feeders, accessible garbage, dropped fruit and pet food.
2) ELIMINATE HIDING SPOTS: Rats don't like it out in the open and will usually just skirt your fence or other border in a hurried manner if they are just passing through. But if you have hiding spots they will be attracted to these, even perhaps die there from poison, or store food there, even nest and have babies. In my yard accessible to Bella I had a small wood pile, a garden shed open on the bottom and a few boards temporarily stored in the breezeway. That's it but that was enough. (I am in the process now of moving the wood pile to the carport where it unaccessible to any of my pets, including the cats, framing in the bottom of the garden shed and clearing out the breezeway.
3) ALTERNATIVE RAT CONTROL: Although there are supposedly "non toxic" chemically based rat poisons available on the market, these are still under suspicion as to whether or not they can harm your pet. I personally am not going to take a chance on these. However, if you have a rat problem there are non-toxic methods to control them. I encourage you to study this and find something suitable for your situation. For me, I will be purchasing several electronic rat / mouse zappers. These are essentially small boxes powered by D cell batteries. You place peanut butter inside and when they step on the area surrounding the food it delivers a shock that kills them instantly. A red light comes on when this has occurred so the box can be emptied and reset. There are other devices available, this one seems most suitable for my home since we live in town. I'll place two under the house (one at each end), one under or inside the garden shed and one in the carport.
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I live in town, so if you live on large property or acreage where your dog runs free the following probably won't be as applicable to you. But if you have a smaller amount of property or your dogs are confined most of the time in a fenced area the following might be helpful:
Rats can find their way into your yard through digging or climbing, despite our best efforts to keep them out. There are still a few things we can do that can help with this.
1) ELIMINATE OUTDOOR FOOD: They are primarily attracted to food in your yard. This includes dropped seed from bird feeders, accessible garbage, dropped fruit and pet food.
2) ELIMINATE HIDING SPOTS: Rats don't like it out in the open and will usually just skirt your fence or other border in a hurried manner if they are just passing through. But if you have hiding spots they will be attracted to these, even perhaps die there from poison, or store food there, even nest and have babies. In my yard accessible to Bella I had a small wood pile, a garden shed open on the bottom and a few boards temporarily stored in the breezeway. That's it but that was enough. (I am in the process now of moving the wood pile to the carport where it unaccessible to any of my pets, including the cats, framing in the bottom of the garden shed and clearing out the breezeway.
3) ALTERNATIVE RAT CONTROL: Although there are supposedly "non toxic" chemically based rat poisons available on the market, these are still under suspicion as to whether or not they can harm your pet. I personally am not going to take a chance on these. However, if you have a rat problem there are non-toxic methods to control them. I encourage you to study this and find something suitable for your situation. For me, I will be purchasing several electronic rat / mouse zappers. These are essentially small boxes powered by D cell batteries. You place peanut butter inside and when they step on the area surrounding the food it delivers a shock that kills them instantly. A red light comes on when this has occurred so the box can be emptied and reset. There are other devices available, this one seems most suitable for my home since we live in town. I'll place two under the house (one at each end), one under or inside the garden shed and one in the carport.
December 24, 2008 11:54 PM
You don't need to use poison. Get a couple of Riddex Pest Repelling units and plug them into your walls. They create a vibration in your walls thru the electrical system and the mice/rats can't stand it! It drives them out of your house without killing them. You can buy them on Ebay, but Riddex.com is sold out. I hope your dogs will be okay.
Source(s):
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38.l1313&_nkw=riddex&_...
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December 25, 2008 01:28 AM
These did not work at all for me when I tried them. I wouldn't recommend them at all.
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December 25, 2008 01:02 AM
From the wording in the question it sounds like you haven't already started using poison. My thoughts would be for you to use non-lethal traps and release the mice somewhere where they will be free to live (i.e. an orchard or surrounding field). Not only does this rid you of the mice, but you do not have to deal with a carcass or with the potential of poisoning your own pets through ingestion of a poisoned mouse. If "catch and release" is not an option, good old mouse traps do wonders. Although I have had a time or two where the trap did not instantly kill the mouse (the two were apparently jumpers... they jumped when the trap triggered and were killed but not "caught" by the trap, so I don't know if it was instant or not), for the most part they are instant termination of the pest.
I wish you well and good luck on your choice.
Source(s):
Experience.
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December 25, 2008 03:44 AM
Well, most likely a single mouse will not have a sufficiently large dose to harm your dog, but several might, so I would certainly consider this a possible source of poisoning for your pet. As for degradation over time, actually most of the substances that are used for rodent poison are quite long-lasting, so I wouldn't bet on that.
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December 25, 2008 01:53 PM
The risk of course is that there could be residual poison in the mouse's stomach or bloodstream that will poison or at least harm your dog. Even if she doesn't die, she could suffer other ill effects. Also, rats have a habit of sneaking away to somewhere strange (like inside a wall or behind immovable objects). The smell can apparently be quite ... stifling for quite a long while until the rat carcass dessicates or is eaten up by its compadres. For me, the risk of rat poison doesn't outweigh the benefits.
I use covered snap traps for my mice problem in the house and set them high off the floor or behind in areas where the mice can travel, but my puppy has a hard time getting to.
Note: Mice do in fact like cheese. The mice in my area like provolone. But they really *die* for peanut butter (crunchy organic).
Source(s):
Personal experience.
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