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M$5.60
Why won't my cat use her litter box?
OK here is the deal, My cat is three years old and has been peeing and pooping right outside her box for three years! We have taken her to the vet and had numerous tests done, they can't find anything wrong. She has been on behavioral medicine (think prozac) for months now and she is still doing it.
I have tried about 10 different kinds of cat litter, everything from scoopable to non scoopable, I've tried newspaper, shredded newspaper, wood chips, sand and even puppy pads.
Just so you know too, she won't pee on the carpet. It's only on cement or tiles. I want to just cover everything in carpet but 1) I can't afford it right now and 2) what if she does start to pee on the carpet because her flooring is covered up? That's a lot harder to clean than the flooring.
My husband wants to get rid of her but I am having a hard time doing that. I feel as though she is part of my family, I wouldn't throw my kid out if he peed his pants all the time.
Has anyone ever had a problem like this or know someone who has?
Please help!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/32297220@N00/3880664915/
Meet TC (trucking cat) and Babygirl (floor peeer)
I have tried about 10 different kinds of cat litter, everything from scoopable to non scoopable, I've tried newspaper, shredded newspaper, wood chips, sand and even puppy pads.
Just so you know too, she won't pee on the carpet. It's only on cement or tiles. I want to just cover everything in carpet but 1) I can't afford it right now and 2) what if she does start to pee on the carpet because her flooring is covered up? That's a lot harder to clean than the flooring.
My husband wants to get rid of her but I am having a hard time doing that. I feel as though she is part of my family, I wouldn't throw my kid out if he peed his pants all the time.
Has anyone ever had a problem like this or know someone who has?
Please help!
Meet TC (trucking cat) and Babygirl (floor peeer)
voted interesting: buddawiggi M$0.25, samid M$0.10, lauriem M$0.25
answers (7)
Poor cat! And poor @lesliec! My cats are like my children too, so I completely understand your frustration. My normally litter-trained cats sometimes "forget" their manners and mark....wherever they want. Makes me crazy.
Okay, here are a few tips to consider, though it seems you've really covered a lot of your bases.
#1 - Have you examined her paws or considered using shredded paper instead of litter?
Perhaps the feeling of the litter on her paws bothers her. Try shredded paper for a while and see if she doesn't like this better. Also make sure she doesn't have any growths, spurs, or anything else on her paws to give her more reason to hate poky litter granules. After all - it sounds like she knows what the box is for!
#2 - Have you tried Feliway? This might not be a cure-all for you since she's already tried kitty prozac, but Feliway is a plug-in diffuser that puts out happy kitty pheromones into the air (humans can't smell it). Plug one in near the litter box to see if it mellows her even more.
#3 - How about laying down puppy pee pads around her litter box?
Maybe you can train her to use the pee pads? Maybe even try the pee pads INSIDE the litter box? Maybe she'd like the feeling of those better.
#4 - Have you tried adding a second pan elsewhere in the house?
There's a chance your kitty will like another location better - perhaps one that is more private, or that has better climate control. Give her the option, maybe it will work, maybe it won't.
#5 - You've mentioned trying several types of litter - have you tried unscented?
If you'd like to still encourage her to use litter, STOP changing the brands and pick one unscented litter brand. Stick with it, and see if over time she doesn't grow used to it.
#6 - I know you've tried different types of litter, what about different types of pans?
Maybe the pan you chose isn't large enough for her liking. Hey, all of us living creatures are picky! Try a larger pan, and make sure it doesn't have any ridges that stick out of the litter area to get in her way. A nice, wide, open pan would be your best bet (or maybe go the reverse and try a more private pan?)
Some people may suggest trying to toilet train her, but I wouldn't hold out much hope if the litter box is such an obstacle.
Please do anything you can to keep this baby in your life, she needs love even if she's odd. She's not a bad cat, just misunderstood, and she probably isn't happy doing this either. Don't give up - just think outside the (litter) box (sorry) and try to come up with some creative solutions for the sake of your baby. There's a compromise out there that will work for you AND your cat! Just keep looking!
Okay, here are a few tips to consider, though it seems you've really covered a lot of your bases.
#1 - Have you examined her paws or considered using shredded paper instead of litter?
Perhaps the feeling of the litter on her paws bothers her. Try shredded paper for a while and see if she doesn't like this better. Also make sure she doesn't have any growths, spurs, or anything else on her paws to give her more reason to hate poky litter granules. After all - it sounds like she knows what the box is for!
#2 - Have you tried Feliway? This might not be a cure-all for you since she's already tried kitty prozac, but Feliway is a plug-in diffuser that puts out happy kitty pheromones into the air (humans can't smell it). Plug one in near the litter box to see if it mellows her even more.
#3 - How about laying down puppy pee pads around her litter box?
Maybe you can train her to use the pee pads? Maybe even try the pee pads INSIDE the litter box? Maybe she'd like the feeling of those better.
#4 - Have you tried adding a second pan elsewhere in the house?
There's a chance your kitty will like another location better - perhaps one that is more private, or that has better climate control. Give her the option, maybe it will work, maybe it won't.
#5 - You've mentioned trying several types of litter - have you tried unscented?
If you'd like to still encourage her to use litter, STOP changing the brands and pick one unscented litter brand. Stick with it, and see if over time she doesn't grow used to it.
#6 - I know you've tried different types of litter, what about different types of pans?
Maybe the pan you chose isn't large enough for her liking. Hey, all of us living creatures are picky! Try a larger pan, and make sure it doesn't have any ridges that stick out of the litter area to get in her way. A nice, wide, open pan would be your best bet (or maybe go the reverse and try a more private pan?)
Some people may suggest trying to toilet train her, but I wouldn't hold out much hope if the litter box is such an obstacle.
Please do anything you can to keep this baby in your life, she needs love even if she's odd. She's not a bad cat, just misunderstood, and she probably isn't happy doing this either. Don't give up - just think outside the (litter) box (sorry) and try to come up with some creative solutions for the sake of your baby. There's a compromise out there that will work for you AND your cat! Just keep looking!
source(s):
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/19859148
http://www.la-spca.org/dedication/talk/t_litterbox.htm
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/19859148
http://www.la-spca.org/dedication/talk/t_litterbox.htm
voted helpful: buddawiggi, dandrewrichardson, lesliec, mysterygirl89
Voted as best: psionandy, nickunderscore
It's not the cat litter or the cat. It's the litter box. Cats are very particular about their litter box. I've had a cat for eight years and she's been using the litter box religiously until, approximately two weeks ago, when I bought myself a new litter box with an insert where you can pull the insert out and it strains the clumps out. Easier on me, but she hates it. It's a little smaller than what she is used to and I think that might be the culprit. In any case, I already know from experience she won't use the litter box until I get a new one, so I'm not even trying. She poops on the side of the litter box on the linoleum floor, so it's not a big deal for now.
Anyway, sometimes it has to do with whether the box is covered or not. Some cats like covered ones and some don't, so get the opposite of what you have now. Also, get a different size than what the cat is used to, a little bigger rather than smaller. Also, not that you have a problem with this since your cat hasn't been using the box, but a cat also won't use a litter box if it is dirty. I have three cats and I have to clean my litter box twice daily to keep them using it, except of course for the one really finicky one that stopped using it a couple of weeks ago. If you happen to have more than one cat, you may need more than one litter box, as my Lady Kitty hates King Kitty and won't use the box after him because of his smell.
In any case, try that. Also, when you purchase a new litter box, put nice new litter in there (not the newspaper, sand, or wood chips as cats are less likely to use that stuff), and then pick her up nice and easy and talk to her softly and tell her how you bought her a new litter box, blah, blah, blah, then carry her over and place her inside the litter box and keeping talking to her about how she needs to use the kitty box. Animals don't understand you, but if you try to communicate with them, they will try to understand what you are saying and can usually pick up on the idea by your tone of voice, repetitive words like "kitty box," and your actions as you are speaking. Just because you speak two different languages doesn't mean you can't get your point across without using harsh punishment.
If she still won't use it, try taking some of her poop and placing it in the litter to show her where you want her to go.
PS - This is semi-common knowledge that the vet should have known and suggested to you. If I were you, I would avoid going back to that vet, as it appears he either doesn't know a whole lot about cats, or he was just trying to get money out of you by suggesting a more profitable fix, like putting your cat on Prozac.
Anyway, sometimes it has to do with whether the box is covered or not. Some cats like covered ones and some don't, so get the opposite of what you have now. Also, get a different size than what the cat is used to, a little bigger rather than smaller. Also, not that you have a problem with this since your cat hasn't been using the box, but a cat also won't use a litter box if it is dirty. I have three cats and I have to clean my litter box twice daily to keep them using it, except of course for the one really finicky one that stopped using it a couple of weeks ago. If you happen to have more than one cat, you may need more than one litter box, as my Lady Kitty hates King Kitty and won't use the box after him because of his smell.
In any case, try that. Also, when you purchase a new litter box, put nice new litter in there (not the newspaper, sand, or wood chips as cats are less likely to use that stuff), and then pick her up nice and easy and talk to her softly and tell her how you bought her a new litter box, blah, blah, blah, then carry her over and place her inside the litter box and keeping talking to her about how she needs to use the kitty box. Animals don't understand you, but if you try to communicate with them, they will try to understand what you are saying and can usually pick up on the idea by your tone of voice, repetitive words like "kitty box," and your actions as you are speaking. Just because you speak two different languages doesn't mean you can't get your point across without using harsh punishment.
If she still won't use it, try taking some of her poop and placing it in the litter to show her where you want her to go.
PS - This is semi-common knowledge that the vet should have known and suggested to you. If I were you, I would avoid going back to that vet, as it appears he either doesn't know a whole lot about cats, or he was just trying to get money out of you by suggesting a more profitable fix, like putting your cat on Prozac.
source(s):
Personal experience of 15 years of owning cats.
Personal experience of 15 years of owning cats.
voted helpful: buddawiggi, lesliec, rishiku, fallen_angel21, dandrewrichardson, 9bearz, mysterygirl89, chriswingate
Thanks for trying to help! One thing you mentioned that I haven't tried yet is the covered box. I do have a cover for the box but will try and find her a bigger covered box.
I have two cats but three cat boxes. I heard you need one for each cat and an extra one somewhere in the house.
thanks again and I will let you know if this works!
I have two cats but three cat boxes. I heard you need one for each cat and an extra one somewhere in the house.
thanks again and I will let you know if this works!
I just uncovered this website for you as well.
www.petplace.com/cats/the-top-8-reasons-why-your-kitty-won-t-use-the-litter-box/page1.aspx
Please do. I've run across this twice in my life now. One cat hated the covered box and one cat hated the uncovered box, so it just all depends on the cat I guess.
www.petplace.com/cats/the-top-8-reasons-why-your-kitty-won-t-use-the-litter-box/page1.aspx
Please do. I've run across this twice in my life now. One cat hated the covered box and one cat hated the uncovered box, so it just all depends on the cat I guess.
I agree with her. Maybe they don't like their litter box. Our cat years back doesn't poop on her first litter box. We bought another one and she started using the new one.
You can also try to talk to them like what @samid said. It works for me. I told my cats before that if they'll poop or pee inside the house, they must go to the bathroom and must not just poop anywhere. I know kinda weird, but it works.
You can also try to talk to them like what @samid said. It works for me. I told my cats before that if they'll poop or pee inside the house, they must go to the bathroom and must not just poop anywhere. I know kinda weird, but it works.
Great answer, I had a kitten who had this problem, she preferred a cardboard box over the litter box so we just started using a cardboard box and getting new ones and she loved it.
Congrats!! Your answer was nominated for 9/3/09's Answer of the Day contest!!
There are many reasons as to why your cat may not use it's letter box. some of those reasons are;
1. Your cat may have a medical problem.
2. Your cat may not like the brand of litter you have chosen.
3. The location of the litter box is not to the cats liking.
4. Your cat is spraying urine not urinating.
5. Your Cat may be stressed.
6. Your cat may not know where the litter box is.
7. Their litter is to dirty.
8. The cat is attracted to a previously soiled location.
Here are a few suggestions to your litter box problems;
1. Provide a box for each cat.
2. Change the litter daily.
3. Provide constant access to a box.
4. Go back to a previously used brand of litter and/or discontinue new disinfectant.
5. Move the box to where it was previously used.
6. Eliminate new or frightening noise near the litter box.
7. Move food and water away from the litter box.
8. If the cat is only going in one spot, put the litter box at the exact location and gradually move it back to where you want it at the rate of one foot per day. If there are several places, try putting dishes of cat food in those areas to discourage further elimination there.
9. Experiment with different textures of litter (Cats prefer sandy litter) Use a covered litter box for cats that stand in box but eliminate outside of it
1. Your cat may have a medical problem.
2. Your cat may not like the brand of litter you have chosen.
3. The location of the litter box is not to the cats liking.
4. Your cat is spraying urine not urinating.
5. Your Cat may be stressed.
6. Your cat may not know where the litter box is.
7. Their litter is to dirty.
8. The cat is attracted to a previously soiled location.
Here are a few suggestions to your litter box problems;
1. Provide a box for each cat.
2. Change the litter daily.
3. Provide constant access to a box.
4. Go back to a previously used brand of litter and/or discontinue new disinfectant.
5. Move the box to where it was previously used.
6. Eliminate new or frightening noise near the litter box.
7. Move food and water away from the litter box.
8. If the cat is only going in one spot, put the litter box at the exact location and gradually move it back to where you want it at the rate of one foot per day. If there are several places, try putting dishes of cat food in those areas to discourage further elimination there.
9. Experiment with different textures of litter (Cats prefer sandy litter) Use a covered litter box for cats that stand in box but eliminate outside of it
source(s):
www.catsofaustralia.com
www.doityourself.com
www.catsofaustralia.com
www.doityourself.com
I have had many cats in my life and I have found some of them that had the same problem.
I have fixed this by taking their lil poopies and putting them in the litter box and use a moist towell to soak up the pee and burry it in the litter.
Most important would be to choose a scentless litter in the begining incase they are sensitive to fragrance. Next when they look like they are getting ready to pee or poo rush them to the litter box and take their paw and show them how much fun it can be to dig before and after.
Lastly if all else fails put them in the bathroom and cover the floor with rugs and leave the litter box in the bathroom with their food and water.
I have fixed this by taking their lil poopies and putting them in the litter box and use a moist towell to soak up the pee and burry it in the litter.
Most important would be to choose a scentless litter in the begining incase they are sensitive to fragrance. Next when they look like they are getting ready to pee or poo rush them to the litter box and take their paw and show them how much fun it can be to dig before and after.
Lastly if all else fails put them in the bathroom and cover the floor with rugs and leave the litter box in the bathroom with their food and water.
source(s):
Own experiences 22 years and (get this) 22 cats
Own experiences 22 years and (get this) 22 cats
I'm so sorry you are dealing with this. Litter box compliance is one of the primary reasons people give up their cats. I have been involved with a cat rescue organization for over a decade, and this is a frequent complaint that can usually be solved. Understanding if she will use the box under any circumstance is the first step. She may have been imprinted with a bad experience in the box early on and that is why she avoids it.
Did she ever use the litter box in your home? Was there a change in the household that occurred close to the time she stopped using the box? Change of human or cat population or a new house?
Is she declawed? We find that litter box avoidance and biting are two behavioral problems that can occur in higher percentage in declawed cats than cats with their claws intact.
Has she ever been diagnosed with a urinary tract infection, cystitis or crystals in her bladder? If she has, but was treated, that could be when she started avoiding the box, as she associates it with pain. She may also get frequent flare ups that cause bladder inflammation, causing her to have pain when she urinates. Not all UTI's are seen in veterinary tests.
Did she ever get attacked by one of the other cats while she was using the box?
This may sound harsh, but confining her to a cage that has room enough for a litter box, food, water and a bed is the first step. Set the cage up in a quite place in the house, away from the other cats. Most cats will use the box when confined in close quarters. If she uses the box consistently while caged and alone, then graduate her to a bathroom by hereself for a few days, if that goes well, then a small room, etc.
The litter should be unscented, preferably clumping, so urine and feces can both be removed completely at least twice per day. The box should be squeaky clean. Transferring litter to a freshly sanitized box once every 7 to 10 days and topping off with fresh litter, is highly recommended.
If you use non-clumping litter, the box should be dumped about every other day, sanitized and refilled. The cat's sense of smell is many times stronger than ours. If you detect any urine odor when near the box, it is time to clean.
Plastic absorbs odors. Fill the litter box with water and add 1/2 cub bleach. Scrub rinse and let dry in the sun.
One litter that can help when reintroducing your cat to a box, is Dr Elsey's Cat Attract. I would use this litter during the confinement tests. Once she is retrained, you can switch to Dr Elsey's Precious Cat Ultra. Whether you chose a covered or uncovered box, be sure to get the largest box available. Cat's like lots of room to dig. Litter should always be unscented. Litter boxes should be scooped no less than twice per day.
I hope these tips help. It is one of the most frustrating problems to deal with, but can usually be resolved once you find the underlying cause.
Did she ever use the litter box in your home? Was there a change in the household that occurred close to the time she stopped using the box? Change of human or cat population or a new house?
Is she declawed? We find that litter box avoidance and biting are two behavioral problems that can occur in higher percentage in declawed cats than cats with their claws intact.
Has she ever been diagnosed with a urinary tract infection, cystitis or crystals in her bladder? If she has, but was treated, that could be when she started avoiding the box, as she associates it with pain. She may also get frequent flare ups that cause bladder inflammation, causing her to have pain when she urinates. Not all UTI's are seen in veterinary tests.
Did she ever get attacked by one of the other cats while she was using the box?
This may sound harsh, but confining her to a cage that has room enough for a litter box, food, water and a bed is the first step. Set the cage up in a quite place in the house, away from the other cats. Most cats will use the box when confined in close quarters. If she uses the box consistently while caged and alone, then graduate her to a bathroom by hereself for a few days, if that goes well, then a small room, etc.
The litter should be unscented, preferably clumping, so urine and feces can both be removed completely at least twice per day. The box should be squeaky clean. Transferring litter to a freshly sanitized box once every 7 to 10 days and topping off with fresh litter, is highly recommended.
If you use non-clumping litter, the box should be dumped about every other day, sanitized and refilled. The cat's sense of smell is many times stronger than ours. If you detect any urine odor when near the box, it is time to clean.
Plastic absorbs odors. Fill the litter box with water and add 1/2 cub bleach. Scrub rinse and let dry in the sun.
One litter that can help when reintroducing your cat to a box, is Dr Elsey's Cat Attract. I would use this litter during the confinement tests. Once she is retrained, you can switch to Dr Elsey's Precious Cat Ultra. Whether you chose a covered or uncovered box, be sure to get the largest box available. Cat's like lots of room to dig. Litter should always be unscented. Litter boxes should be scooped no less than twice per day.
I hope these tips help. It is one of the most frustrating problems to deal with, but can usually be resolved once you find the underlying cause.
voted helpful: mysterygirl89
Voted as best: buddawiggi
There's something weird about the architecture of the box itself. The fact that she's doing her mess close to the box means she's responding to the olifactory cues to do it there, but your box is freaking her out.
I saw that happen with one of my mom's cats once, and that cat was noted for being high-strung since it was a kitten.
You're never going to believe what eventually worked.
A bird-cage type encasing was built large enough to hold the litter box, and was nailed to a 2x4 in the basement about five feet off the ground.
Then a large windfall branch still with bark was leaned up against the entrance to the tree-house, so the cat would climb up the branch and enter the tree-house through the little cat-sized door, and would do it's business in the box which covered the whole floor of that little house.
The front of the house swung open like a mailbox to change the litterbox.
We never figured out if it was because the cat wanted privacy, or if it was because once in the air like that, there was no surface *around* the box to try and use... or what... but for that animal, it worked (it was my dad's idea, and he didn't even like that cat).
I saw that happen with one of my mom's cats once, and that cat was noted for being high-strung since it was a kitten.
You're never going to believe what eventually worked.
A bird-cage type encasing was built large enough to hold the litter box, and was nailed to a 2x4 in the basement about five feet off the ground.
Then a large windfall branch still with bark was leaned up against the entrance to the tree-house, so the cat would climb up the branch and enter the tree-house through the little cat-sized door, and would do it's business in the box which covered the whole floor of that little house.
The front of the house swung open like a mailbox to change the litterbox.
We never figured out if it was because the cat wanted privacy, or if it was because once in the air like that, there was no surface *around* the box to try and use... or what... but for that animal, it worked (it was my dad's idea, and he didn't even like that cat).
After reading the preveious answers here are my thoughts.
First though, my cat creds: I've had had over a dozen cats since I was two years old, fifty years ago!. Often our household has had four completely indoor cats at a time. Att least 11 of them very finicky Siamese - and most were sensitive-pawed because they were declawed (we don't do that to them anymore).
There is definitely something wrong with the litter box and/or the litter - it may just be that her cat mother didn't teach her how to use it and you must be the cat mother. Go with a normal size box is she is a normal size kitty, a large box if she is large or overweight. Make sure that the sides are not too high to climb over. Some cats prefer the models with lower sides. Yes, many really do like an enclosed space because they feel protected while they are vulnerable to attack (even if there are no other animals in the house). But your cat may be picky about the odor so make sure that there is a charcoal filter on the top of the cover. There are natural odor-absorbing crystals that you can hang up on the wall next to the litter box that make the experience more pleasant.
Make sure that you use a very comfortable sand. We use a corn-based sand that leaves little powder and almost completely absorbs and eliminates odors...and clumps really well.
And I would definitely start experimenting with the location of the litter box. What is convenient and comfortable for you may not be what is convenient and comfortable for HER! Keep the litter box far away from her food. Keep it in a palce far from her favorite window seat, cushion, cat condo, etc. We don't eat, sleep, or socialize on top of or right next to our bathroom (well, OK, I did when I lived in this ghastly, over-priced, miniature, 4th-floor walkup sublet in NYC) - but you get the idea.
Good luck and keep us posted!
First though, my cat creds: I've had had over a dozen cats since I was two years old, fifty years ago!. Often our household has had four completely indoor cats at a time. Att least 11 of them very finicky Siamese - and most were sensitive-pawed because they were declawed (we don't do that to them anymore).
There is definitely something wrong with the litter box and/or the litter - it may just be that her cat mother didn't teach her how to use it and you must be the cat mother. Go with a normal size box is she is a normal size kitty, a large box if she is large or overweight. Make sure that the sides are not too high to climb over. Some cats prefer the models with lower sides. Yes, many really do like an enclosed space because they feel protected while they are vulnerable to attack (even if there are no other animals in the house). But your cat may be picky about the odor so make sure that there is a charcoal filter on the top of the cover. There are natural odor-absorbing crystals that you can hang up on the wall next to the litter box that make the experience more pleasant.
Make sure that you use a very comfortable sand. We use a corn-based sand that leaves little powder and almost completely absorbs and eliminates odors...and clumps really well.
And I would definitely start experimenting with the location of the litter box. What is convenient and comfortable for you may not be what is convenient and comfortable for HER! Keep the litter box far away from her food. Keep it in a palce far from her favorite window seat, cushion, cat condo, etc. We don't eat, sleep, or socialize on top of or right next to our bathroom (well, OK, I did when I lived in this ghastly, over-priced, miniature, 4th-floor walkup sublet in NYC) - but you get the idea.
Good luck and keep us posted!
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#2 - Have you tried Feliway? Never heard of this before, thanks for the tip!
#3 - How about laying down puppy pee pads around her litter box?
Tried these too!
#4 - Have you tried adding a second pan elsewhere in the house?
I have three :) One for each cat and a spare.
#5 - You've mentioned trying several types of litter - have you tried unscented?
Yes I heard the scented was bad for the cats so I really haven't used a lot of the scented types.
#6 - I know you've tried different types of litter, what about different types of pans? @samid suggested I try a covered box so that's two people that suggested that I change her box!
Two great suggestions so far!