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thews
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BEST ANSWER  chosen by asker   |  thews  |  January 15, 2009 06:40 AM
The best next step you could take would be to get a current tester. Attach it between one of the cables and the battery and see if current is flowing through the cable. If it is, then you know the dealership didn't do their job and there is parasitic drain. At that point you need to look at electronics and wiring, a problem for a mechanic.

If you don't have a current tester, you can get a voltage tester and see what the voltage on the battery is doing. But I can almost guarantee its dropping though. The question is why.

If there isn't parasitic drain then it's a battery problem. Get a battery from someplace with a good return policy and put that in your car. If its fixed then you know the problem was the battery and take the bad one back to Sears.

If both of those don't lead to anything, put a sign on your car telling the aliens to stop stealing your batteries power.
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Thanks for all of the help - I'll let you know what happens with the voltage test and when I take it in to Sears! Mark

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mmecca
mmecca  |  January 16, 2009 12:49 AM
Thanks for the advice - I tried doing the current test and I believe I was doing it right as my electrical engineering friend verified my results. No parasitic current draw. I'm leaning in the direction of the battery at this point. I'm trying some tests with the battery before I take the plunge and buy a new battery as a troubleshooting method. As we speak, I'm doing an overnight trickle charge. I'm then going to disconnect the battery cables and let the car sit for 48 hours. Periodically, I'm going to check the %age of battery power left on the diehard battery charger / checker system that I borrowed from my friend. After two days, I'm going to see if the car starts when the battery is hooked back up to the vehicle. If it doesn't start, then I'm 100% certain that we can rule out the car and rule in the battery.

How does that sound? Would you even bother with those steps, or would you run out and get a new battery and see if it solves the problem as you suggested in your post?

BTW - the battery checker thingy verifies that the alternator is able to charge the battery back to 100%, so I don't think there is any problem with that system working correctly.

Thanks!
thews
thews  |  January 16, 2009 01:33 AM
Well, with these newfangaled sealed batteries, there isn't a whole lot you can do to fix em if they are broken.

Typically, if your battery were not lasting as long as it should, it would suggest a cell is out of balance, which a trickle charge would fix.

But, that's not whats happening, your battery is actually discharging itself over a rather short period of time. If you did the current test right and aliens are not zapping the energy out of your car battery via sattelite, then I am 99% confident there is some manufacturing defect or internal damage inside of your battery.

Wikepedia has a good explanation of the pate structure of lead acid batteries: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead-acid_battery.

Whats likley happening is that current is managing to flow from a positive plate to a negative plate within the battery. If this is the case, then it is probably not a good idea to keep it in your car because it could fail in a more spectacular manner if the mechanical damage got worse.
mmecca
mmecca  |  January 16, 2009 03:07 AM
Thanks again for the reply! Now that we're both pretty certain that it's the battery, what's the best way for me to "prove" that to Sears so that they can give me a new battery (since it's still under warranty)? I'm especially concerned since I had them "test" the battery and they told me that both the battery and the charging system were okay. Thanks in advance for the advice . . .
thews
thews  |  January 16, 2009 04:05 AM
Well, if I am right and it is leaking current internally, you should take your battery out (or just totally disconnect it, but leave it in the car) one night and test the voltage with a volt meter. Then test it the next morning. If there was a voltage drop then you know it is the battery for sure. Just take those number into Sears and they cant argue without calling you a lier.

If it does drop voltage and they still don't believe you, take the battery in, have them test the voltage, shop for an hour or two and have them test it again. This will only work if its dropping pretty fast, but if you need to do it...
mmecca
mmecca  |  January 16, 2009 12:19 PM
Just FYI - not sure what it means, but the trickle charge was unsuccessful last night. This morning the charger was blinking 888 and the check light was blinking. The battery was at 55% of capacity - after starting at 100% from a fast charge then dropping to 85% in 30 minutes. I'm trying to trickle charge it again while I'm at work today. I'll then start doing voltage tests on it and see how fast the voltage drops. Wouldn't it be normal though for the voltage to drop in the cold weather? Maybe I should do the tests in my house rather than out in my garage? Thanks again!
mmecca
mmecca  |  January 16, 2009 12:20 PM
From the reading that I've been doing on the internet too - it would seem that the percentage of charge indicated by my friend's diehard charger would be indicating a voltage loss too . . . I think . . . I'll measure the voltage with my voltmeter though.
tracebooks
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tracebooks  |  January 15, 2009 05:15 AM
Have you taken the battery itself to a battery store and had it tested? It may be low on fluid so that it's not retaining a charge for long. There could also be a short somewhere in the system that's intermittant. Because it's fine once you jump it, it isn't the alternator (or not likely), because your car would die mid-drive if it weren't charging the battery. And it's probably not the belt for the same reason.

I've had cars do the same thing, and it's usually just the battery itself that needs replacing. Always seems to be in cold weather, too. Or at least uncomfortable weather so that when I've been stranded it's not pleasant.
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