How to Sew

Guide Note

Why hire a tailor or seamstress when you can just do it yourself? Sewing is an important household skill, whether you need to perform a bit of on-the-spot mending, replace lost buttons, make a Halloween costume, or hand-craft a unique wardrobe. And it's easier than you might think! This page will teach you how to sew without poking yourself in the fingers (too much).

Table of Contents

• Introduction
• Step 1: The Sewing Basket
• Step 2: Basic Stitching
• Step 3: Buttons
• Step 4: Prepare the Pattern
• Step 5: Cutting and Pinning the Fabric
• Step 6: Sewing Machine Tips
• Step 7: Sewing Seams
• Step 8: Hems
• Step 9: Finishing Tricks
• More Advanced Sewing
• References

Sewing Tips

1. Simple mending is easy by hand with the backstitch.
2. Learn to sew with an easy pattern with few pieces, such as a purse or pillow.
3. You don't need a fancy machine. Most projects can be completed with one or two different stitches.
4. Always double-check your pattern or measurements before cutting fabric.
5. Experiment. To learn new tricks, keep trying new patterns.

• by Nadia

Introduction

• Getting into a new hobby can be difficult. Sewing looks like a fun and productive pastime from a distance, but backstitch? Bobbin? Basting? Bias? This may sound like a foreign language now, but with a little study and practice, you'll discover that sewing is accessible for anyone. From the simple steps of sewing a button back onto your favorite shirt, to making your own clothing from scratch, How to Sew can help any beginner to get stitching. This page will cover basic stitches, following a store-bought pattern, and tips on using your sewing machine.

Step 1: The Sewing Basket

• Start by getting your tools together.¹ There are many sewing gizmos out there, and as you get going and gain practice, you will be able to figure out which you don't really need, and which you can't live without. But a typical, well-stocked sewing basket includes these basics:

1. 

   (Creative Commons photo by Jaye Elle)
   Scissors.² Pinking shears, the kind with the zig-zag edge, or dressmaker's shears can be useful for cutting fabric, but a standard pair will do almost every job.³ Just make sure that they're sharp.
2. Thimbles. ⁴ These protect your thumb while you're sewing by hand.
3. Needles.⁵ Sharp ones are the kind for sewing, though you will need a variety of sizes.
4. Thread. All-purpose thread will do for most jobs. If you're making a small mending kit to take with you when you travel, don't forget an assortment of colors.
5. Measuring tape.⁶ You'll need a ruler as well, when measuring on flat surfaces.
6. Tailor's chalk.
7. Seam ripper.⁷
8. Safety pins.
9. Pin cushion. Stock it with sewing pins, of course. With a bit of extra fabric that you love, you could even make your own. ⁸

Step 2: Basic Stitching

• No matter what kind of projects you take on, knowing the basics of stitching will come in handy.⁹ The backstitch is used sew together smaller pieces of fabric, or a gap in the seams of your clothing.¹⁰ This stitch imitates the neat, joined stitching of an electric sewing machine.

1. Thread the sewing needle with appropriately colored thread, and knot it strongly at the end. ¹¹
2. Lay the two pieces that you want to sew back to back, with the outside print facing inside. Push the needle up through the fabric at the starting point, and pull the thread tight until the knot touches the fabric. (Always, always pull the thread taut after every stitch.)
3. Bring the needle about a quarter-inch to the right, and plunge through to the side of the fabric you started on. This creates your first stitch.
4. This may be counter-intuitive, but you will be sewing left to right. Your first stitch goes towards the right so that you can now stitch, well, back. Bring the needle up through the fabric a stitch-length to the 'left' of the spot where you started.
5. Now, make your second stitch by pushing the needle and thread down through the same starting place that you just skipped over. This should close up the gap in the fabric and produce your two first stitches, side by side.
6. Bring the needle up through the fabric a quarter-inch over from your second stitch. Close the gap again by bringing the needle down through the left-hand edge of that second stitch. You should have three short stitches on one side, and longer, overlapping stitches on the other side.
7. By now, you should be getting the hang of it! Just keep going until you have stitched to the end of your desired area. At first it might be difficult to keep your stitches straight and evenly sized. But this only takes a little bit of practice.

• Another helpful stitch is the running stitch, used for basting.¹² This means sewing together two pieces of fabric temporarily, until you get them under the sewing machine. There is no complicated backwards movement required on this one. Just pass your needle and thread over and under, making stitches on alternating sides of the fabric, until the pieces are joined.¹³

Step 3: Buttons

• Attaching a button to cloth is another common task, whether you're mending or working on your own project.¹⁴ There are a gazillion different sizes, colors, and sizes of buttons, but they can all be sewn onto your clothing using the same basic steps.

1. 

   (Creative Commons photo by IamSAM)
   Thread and knot the needle. Doubling up when you thread the needle, by pulling half of the length of thread through the eye and knotting both ends together, will speed up this particular task.
2. Lay the button down on the spot where you would like to attach it.
3. Slide a toothpick on top of the fabric. Every stitch you make will be sewn across the toothpick. This creates a small gap, or shank, needed so that you can maneuver your button through the buttonhole.
4. Beginning on the opposite side of the fabric, push the needle upwards through the fabric and the button. As with stitching, don't forget to pull all the thread through as well.
5. Push the needle down through the second hole in the button, past the toothpick, and through the fabric underneath.
6. Pull the needle up through the fabric and hole in the button that you started with. This motion is creating the loops that will keep the button in place.
7. Every set of holes on your button will need about five or six loops to make it secure. When you have finished stitching the loops, wrap the thread a few times around the shank, then pull your needle though to the wrong side of the fabric and tie off the thread. Cut the the thread with scissors, and you are done.

• These instructions assume that your button has two holes. If it has four, then simply attach the button by alternating between the two sets of holes (across or diagonally as you prefer). If you have a button with one hole, a shank button, the steps are almost the same.¹⁵ However, you may want to attach a small, flat button on the inside of your fabric at the same time. This helps to stop the shank button from pulling too hard on your clothing.

Step 4: Prepare the Pattern

• If this is your first ever project, it's definitely best to start off with an easy pattern, for example a fun purse or pillow.^{16 17} Once you graduate to clothing, and add in darts, pleats, zippers, and more delicate fabric, the difficulty level begins to increase, Some other tips:¹⁸

1. Sizing in patterns is not the same as sizing for off-the-rack clothing.¹⁹ Get someone to measure you, and shop carefully for the correct size of pattern.²⁰
2. Purchase your fabric. The back of the fabric will indicate how much fabric is needed. If there is nap to your fabric (a pattern or texture that will need to be matched at the seams), then buy extra.
3. Buy your notions.²¹ Notions are the buttons, zippers, appliques, and other non-fabric necessities. These will also be specified on the pattern. Picking out the right notions to individualize your project can be a fun task.
4. One pattern can adapt to different variations. For example, a v-neck or crewneck, or short or long sleeves. The variation that you choose will make a difference in what supplies you need.
5. Copy out your pattern onto pattern tracing material, so that you can save the original to use again. You can also measure and draw it onto the tracing sheets if you are using online instructions. Mark out any alterations you need to make.

• Got everything? You're almost ready to sew.

Step 5: Cutting And Pinning The Fabric

• Once you've prepped your pattern and gotten all the ingredients for your project together, it's time to get out the scissors. Be very careful, because mistakes made in this step are tough to correct.

1. Always wash the fabric first. This way, any changes in size or texture will happen before you start to work with it.
2. Cut each pattern piece from the paper, following the outline.
3. 

   (Creative Commons photo by Lenore Edman)
   Lay your fabric straight and flat on the cutting surface, then attach each paper piece to the fabric with sewing pins. The best way to do this depends on the pattern and fabric, so pin carefully.²² Luckily, the pattern instructions will give you help with this step. Things to watch out for:
   1. Nap. ²³
   2. Grain and bias. ²⁴
   3. Matching shapes in a printed pattern.
   4. Fitting all the pieces on your sheet of fabric.
4. Cut out each piece with sharp fabric scissors. Some of the pattern markings will need to be indicated as you proceed, since each will be important when sewing. ²⁵ For example, mark each triangular notch with a small right-angled cut in the edge of the fabric. This will help you to indicate left from right or back from front once you begin sewing.
5. Typically, the pattern will indicate the preferred order to stitch the fabric pieces in. Remove the paper pattern, and then pin together the first pair of pieces. ²⁶ You'll do this in the manner that you will be sewing them together, with the wrong sides facing each other. Use the pins at a right angle to the direction you will be sewing in. One pin for every couple of inches should do the job.

Step 6: Sewing Machine Tips

• • You're ready to sew! The intricacies of how to use your particular sewing machine are a little outside the scope of this particular how-to, but the machine's instruction manual should get you started. But if you've never used your sewing machine before, then it's a good idea to practice a little first. ²⁷

1. The price of a sewing machine varies greatly with each model, so be realistic about which functions and features you really need. ²⁸. Many projects can be completed with the machine's normal stitching function and the buttonhole stitch. More rarely, the zigzag stitch or blind hem stitch may also come in handy.
2. Try out the machine before you buy it. Bring the type of fabrics that you will be sewing with.
3. Always hang onto the manual, as that will tell you anything you could need to know about operating or troubleshooting the machine. If you have a second-hand machine which has been separated from its manual, the manufacturer or other sources may be able to sell you a new copy. ²⁹
4. When you're sewing, place the machine in a spot with a lot of light, on a sturdy surface that won't bounce around as the machine vibrates. ³⁰

Step 7: Sewing Seams

• Seams are the straight stitches that hold your item together, and these will form the bulk of sewing done on your project. Once you have stitched a seam or two, it will be easy to see the project coming into place.

1. Thread the sewing machine. ³¹
2. Select the stitch type and stitch length on the machine settings. ³² Unless otherwise specified by the pattern, you will always use the machine's regular stitching function. If the fabric is bunching and puckering, then it is likely that the stitches are not long enough. You can practice on scrap sections of the fabric to figure out the ideal setting.
3. Lay the fabric underneath the presser foot, at the starting point of the hem you wish to sew. ³³ The needle should be over the fabric, about a quarter-inch from the edge. Lower the presser foot down to hold the fabric in place.
4. Press down on the pedal to start sewing. Every time you begin (or end) a seam, you should run the stitching backwards then forwards over the same spot, three or four times. ³⁴ This trick is called backtacking, and it makes a sort of knot to help keep the seam from coming loose.
5. You should keep both hands on your fabric, to help keep it stretched flat and moving properly under the sewing machine needle. As well, you can pull out each sewing pin once the section that it was holding in place has been stitched.
6. Remove the pins as you sew. Don't let your machine sew over them, as this could break the needle.
7. Once you get to the end of the seam, don't forget to backtack again.
8. Immediately after sewing each seam, use your iron to press the seam. ³⁵ This will encourage the fabric to always lie in the direction that it should, and help your pieces to look more professional.
9. Pin and sew the next seam. Keep going until all the seams are completed.

Step 8: Hems

• Hemming is useful for altering the length of too-long pants and skirts, as well as an essential step for finishing off a sewing project. Any raw fabric edge which is not hidden inside a seam will need to be hemmed. As well as being nicer to look at, this helps prevent fraying.

1. 

   (Creative Commons photo by kurisurokku)
   If you are hemming existing clothing, first remove the original hem.
2. Fold over the fabric edge, turning a half-inch of the fabric over to the wrong side of the project. Fold the fabric twice, so that the raw edge is invisible under the crease. Just like with seams, use sewing pins to keep the folded fabric in place.
3. For clothing, measure the item against the person who will be wearing it. If the sleeves or pant legs are too long, then measure the correct length, and mark it with chalk. Trim any extra fabric, so that the fabric is inside the hem is a half-inch long. Make sure of your measurements first. As always, mistakes made in cutting can't be fixed.
4. Keep a careful hand on your fabric as the machine stitches, in order to keep the hemline straight and even. ³⁶
5. Your machine may also have a blind hem function, used with certain types of fabric to create a hem that won't show on the outside. ³⁷ You'll need a special presser foot for this as well. In more advanced pieces, it may be important to hide the hem stitches.

Step 9: Finishing Tricks

• Once the seams and hems have been sewn, the bulk of your project should be completed. Now you just need to place the final touches, such as buttons, zippers, elastics, appliqués, or any other closure items or decorations. While some of these may look intimidating, most just require a little concentration and patience.

1. Buttons: You already know how to sew a button. The machine will have a stitch to sew the accompanying buttonhole. How to do this will depend on the exact capabilities of the machine, and the manual will walk you through it. Some more tips: ³⁸
   1. Always measure the size of the buttonhole against the size of the buttons that you will be using.
   2. The pattern will indicate where to place each buttonhole. If you have altered the size of the pattern, then you may need to move the buttonholes slightly, keeping the space between each equal.
   3. Once the stitches have been sewn on the machine, simply cut the fabric inside the buttonhole with sharp scissors.
2. Zippers: Your machine comes with a special foot, the zipper foot, for this task. ³⁹ Buy a zipper that's a bit longer than the opening that it will be used for. It will be easier to work with and the extra tape can be trimmed. ⁴⁰
   1. If the fabric is light, attach iron-on interfacing to the seam allowance of the opening to make it stronger. ⁴¹
   2. Sew in the zipper in two steps. First, sew only the seam allowance to the zipper with a machine-basting stitch.
   3. Next, sew the zipper to the garment from the right side of the garment.
3. Elastics: This is probably the easiest of all.⁴²
   1. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic tape, and this will give you something to hold on to as you pull the elastic through the hem casing.
   2. Stitch the two ends of elastic together.
   3. Sew the casing closed.
4. Appliqués: Iron-on appliqués are easily available at your favorite fabric store. You can also buy sew-on items, or make your own out of any fabric. ⁴³
   1. Use the zigzag stitch on your machine. For prettiest results, you can also use thread in a contrasting color.
   2. Stop and start the machine, and turn the fabric as needed, in order to follow the contours of the shape of the appliqué.

More Advanced Sewing

• Now that your first project is completed, you are ready to tackle more projects. With a little experience, you will feel confident enough move on to other, more complicated designs. ⁴⁴. There are many types of sewing challenges to master, and this page has only shown you the basics. You may want to try making items with more pieces, trickier fabrics, fancier stitches, blouses with darts or skirts with pleats. ^{45 46} There are lots of ideas out there, so keep exploring and keep sewing.

References for How To Sew

1. ↑ About.com: Sewing Tools  
2. ↑ MarthaStewart.com: Sewing Scissors
3. ↑ About.com: Pinking Shears
4. ↑ ExpertVillage Videos: Basic Sewing Supplies: Thimbles
5. ↑ Craft Stylish: Know Your (Hand-Sewing) Needles
6. ↑ About.com: Sewing Tape Measures
7. ↑ About.com: Seam Ripper
8. ↑ The Purl Bee: Very Easy Pincushions
9. ↑ Instructables: Running & Basting Stitches
10. ↑ You Tube: Backstitch a Seam
11. ↑ ExpertVillage Videos: How to Thread a Needle
12. ↑ wiseGEEK: What is a Basting Stitch?
13. ↑ About.com: Running Stitch Q&A
14. ↑ MarthaStewart.com: Sewing on a Button
15. ↑ About.com: How to Sew on a Shank Button
16. ↑ Canadian Living: Sew a simple and stylish tote bag  
17. ↑ About.com: Before You Sew Pillows
18. ↑ Dummies.com: Read a Sewing Pattern
19. ↑ Threads: Choose the Correct Pattern Size
20. ↑ About.com: Women: How to Find Your Size
21. ↑ About.com: Sewing Notions Information
22. ↑ Threads: Pattern Layouts
23. ↑ About.com: Fabric Nap
24. ↑ About.com: Fabric Grain
25. ↑ Threads: Pattern Road Map: Reading the Signs and Symbols
26. ↑ ExpertVillage Videos: How to Pin the Fabric (to Make a Simple Pillow)
27. ↑ Instructables.com: How to Sew: Running & Basting Stitch
28. ↑ Not Martha: Your First Sewing Machine
29. ↑ About.com: Sewing Machine Manuals
30. ↑ Instructables.com: How to Sew (Using a Sewing Machine)
31. ↑ ExpertVillage Videos: How to Thread a Sewing Machine
32. ↑ About.com: Stitch Length
33. ↑ About.com: Presser Foot
34. ↑ ExpertVillage Videos: Starting to Sew
35. ↑ About.com: How to Press a Seam Open
36. ↑ ExpertVillage Videos: How Do You Make a Hem by Machine?
37. ↑ Instructables.com: Blind Hem Stitch
38. ↑ About.com: Buttonholes
39. ↑ About.com: Zipper Foot
40. ↑ Threads: Zippers
41. ↑ About.com: Seam Allowance
42. ↑ You Tube: Easy Sewing Projects: How to Insert Elastic into a Headband
43. ↑ ExpertVillage Videos: How to Sew Applique to a Throw Pillow
44. ↑ About.com: Sewing Projects Index for an Intermediate Skill Level
45. ↑ ExpertVillage Videos: How to Sew a Dart
46. ↑ Lula Louise: Tutorial for a Pleated Skirt