How to Set Up a Fish Tank

Guide Note

Aquariums are a relaxing way to add a bit of living scenery into a room. If you want to know how to set up a fish tank, this page will guide you through the process. Before long you will be fishkeeping with the best.

Table of Contents

Fish Tank Set Up Tips

  1. Larger tanks are easier to maintain than smaller ones.
  2. Purchase the best equipment you can afford.
  3. Test and cycle your water before adding your fish.
  4. Use distilled water instead of tap water.
  5. Don't overcrowd your aquarium: 1" of fish for every gallon of water.

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Love aquatic life? We'll help you learn how to set up an aquarium

Introduction

  • An aquarium or fish tank is not just a fun hobby—according to Aquariumsource.com it can even effectively reduce stress.1 Fish tanks also provide you with a source of entertainment while giving you a window into the undersea world. If you are ready to start your own little ocean, this page will help guide you through the process.

What You Will Need

  • Although this article will be going over this information in detail, this is a list of what you will need to purchase to set up your aquarium:
  • Aquarium
  • Aquarium stand
  • Hood and lighting
  • Filtration system
  • Heater
  • Thermometer
  • Water test kit
  • Aquarium water conditioner
  • Aquarium gravel and decorations
  • Artificial plants (if desired)
  • Power strip
  • Fish net
  • Fish food
  • Notice that fish and live plants are not on this list. You should not purchase these for several weeks after you have set up your aquarium because you need to set up and cycle your aquarium first.

Step 1: Choose an Aquarium, Stand and Hood

  • One of the biggest decisions you will make is what size of aquarium to purchase. The experts will all give you the same advice: purchase the largest size that you can afford.2 Now, this does not mean purchasing a 200-gallon aquarium that takes up one half of your living room. However, it does suggest staying away from the 10-gallon aquarium and moving toward the 20- to 30-gallon size.
  • Of course, you should also look to see where you are going to put your aquarium. You need a spot in your house that does not receive direct sunlight. The sunlight will cause problems with algae. You also need a spot that is close to a grounded electrical outlet.3 If you are working with a limited amount of space, you may want to measure the space before purchasing your aquarium to ensure that your purchase will fit.
  • You should also purchase an aquarium stand. Once it is full, the aquarium will be heavy and will need proper support. Trying to place an aquarium on other surfaces can end up damaging that surface. Since aquariums are nearly impossible to move once they are full (water weighs about 8 pounds a gallon), it is a good idea to purchase a nice stand right up front.3 These stands are designed to hide the components of the filtration system and hold food, chemicals and other supplies.
  • Aquariums usually come with a hood.5 If yours does not, you will need to purchase a hood that fits the aquarium. The hood will prevent any fish from jumping out and keep things from falling in. Since you will need a light for your aquarium anyway, purchase a hood that has one built in.

Step 2: Choose a Filtration System

(Creative Commons photo by Jelene Morris)
(Creative Commons photo by Jelene Morris)
  • The filtration system is what keeps the water clean and chemically balanced in your aquarium. There are three types of filtration that you should be concerned with:
  1. Biological: uses bacteria to convert ammonia to nitrate.6
  2. Chemical: removes chemical impurities, such as phosphate, from the water usually by using activated carbon or resins.7
  3. Mechanical: removes particles from the water.8
  • Before you start thinking that you need to purchase three types of filtration systems, don't panic. Most filtration systems cover all three.

Underground Filters

  • If you purchase any type of aquarium kit, you will notice it comes with an underground filter. However, many aquarium experts advise against using one.8 The bottom line is that although underground filters are cheaper and can work, they are prone to problems, including dangerous ammonia and nitrite levels that can harm fish.8

Hang-on Power Filters

  • Hang-on power filters, also called bio-wheels, are designed to hang along the backside of smaller tanks. They use a pump to suck water into the filtration system. These filters are inexpensive and typically have all three types of filtration systems (mechanical, chemical and biological).7

Canister Filters

Other Filters

  • Underground, hang-on power and canister filters are not the only types of filters available. However, the others are either designed for advanced users or do not combine the three types of filtration systems. For clarity, here are some of the other types of systems available:
  1. Trickle filters are popular among reef and other serious aquarists.7
  2. Internal or sump filters are smaller and go inside the tank.
  3. Foam fractionization or skimming is an auxiliary filtration device used mostly in saltwater tanks to remove toxins.7
  4. Sponge filters are usually a component of other filters, but can be sold as an individual unit. They are only mechanical filtration devices.

Step 3: Purchase Other Necessary Components

  • After the aquarium and filtration system, there are a few more things required to set up your aquarium. These things include a heater, a thermometer, a power strip, gravel and decorations.

Heater

  • Heaters are sold in different sizes based on how much wattage they have. What size you need will depend upon the size of the tank, the temperature of the room and the desired temperature of the tank. Determine how cold the room could get (think night in the winter). Then, think of how warm the tank will need to be (usually 75 degrees Fahrenheit is a good estimate). If these two temperatures only vary by five degrees, you can go with a smaller heater. If they vary by fifteen degrees or more, you will need a larger heater. Here is basic guideline for what size you will need:11
  • 20 gallon tank: one 50-150 watt heater
  • 25 gallon tank: one 75-200 watt heater
  • 40 gallon tank: one 100-300 watt heater
  • 50 gallon tank: two 150-200 watt heaters
  • 65 gallon tank: two 200-250 watt heaters
  • 75 gallon tank: two 250-300 watt heaters

Thermometer

  • Choose a good quality thermometer that is easy for you to read. You want one that will tell you the exact temperature, since a few degrees can cause problems. Spend the money and buy a nice digital thermometer. They cost about $15 to $20 and will be worth the investment.12 Make sure you purchase one that can be moved around so you can test the temperature of your tank at different spots.

Power Strip

  • Your aquarium will have several power components including the filtration system and the heater. Any time that you combine water and electricity, safety should be your utmost concern. Purchase a high quality power strip for this reason. It will make sure that you can hide all the cords behind the aquarium stand and protect your equipment from dangerous power surges. If you want to get really fancy, purchase one with a built in timer. This will help keep your lighting on a set schedule. They are available at most pet stores.

Gravel and Decorations

  • Choosing the gravel (also called substrate) and decorations can be almost as much fun as choosing the fish. You will want enough gravel so that the bottom two inches of your aquarium are covered. Usually, this means about one pound of gravel for every gallon of water.9 A twenty-pound tank will require about twenty pounds of gravel. If you decide to use artificial plants, you should select them now. Live plants should be purchased later after you set up and cycle the aquarium. You should only purchase items that are designed to go in an aquarium.

Step 4: Cleaning and Setting up the Aquarium

(Creative Commons photo by Benson Kua)
(Creative Commons photo by Benson Kua)
  • Before you get started, you will need to rinse everything that is going into the aquarium thoroughly. You will want to take special care to rinse the gravel, as it can contain a lot of dust. Although you can use tap water, purchasing distilled water is a better idea.3 Distilled water does not have all the chemicals and contaminants that tap water does.
  • Here is the order in which you will want to set up your aquarium:
  1. Set up the aquarium stand. Check that the stand is level.3
  2. Set the aquarium on top of the stand.
  3. If you are using an underground filter, add it now.3
  4. Put your heater and filtration system in place, but do not plug them in. This will give you an opportunity to get the cords in place behind the aquarium stand while things are still light enough to move.
  5. Add gravel.
  6. Add 1/3 of the water to the aquarium.
  7. Smooth out the gravel and set your decorations and artificial plants into the aquarium.13
  8. Add 1/3 more of the water. Adjust any of the decorations.
  9. Plug in the heater and turn it on. The heater should be either fully submerged or partially submerged into the water, depending on the type of heater, or it could break.14
  10. Add the thermometer.
  11. Plug in the filtration system and turn it on. Make sure it is working correctly.
  12. Add water conditioner according to directions.13
  13. Wait to add the rest of the water until after you have cycled it.15 When you do add the water, it should be at least 1-inch to 1 1/2-inches below the edge of the aquarium.

Step 5: Establishing Water Conditions

  • This will be the hardest step, although not physically. It requires you to sit and stare at that wonderful new aquarium and not add fish for several weeks. There are several reasons for this.
  1. For the first couple of days, water in new aquariums will turn cloudy. This is caused by a harmless bacterial growth and should disappear naturally.16
  2. You need to test the water and get it set up for your fish.
  3. Your aquarium needs to cycle (see below).
  • If you purchased a water testing kit, you will need it now. If not, you need to get one. Purchase a testing kit that allows you to measure the water's pH, ammonia, nitrite and carbonate hardness. Wait a day or two before testing. Then, take a sample of water and put it in a jar. Following the directions on the kit, test the water. Record all your numbers.
  • After you have tested the water, take your jar to a pet store that offers free water testing. See what levels they show. This will give you an idea of how accurate your testing was. If your testing was off, check the directions to see if you did something wrong and try again. You are now ready to cycle your tank.

Cycling Your Tank

  • Luckily, a process called "fishless cycling" has been developed that eliminates this process. No matter which way you choose, cycling will take the same amount of time (about six weeks), so we will only cover the more humane approach of fishless cycling. Warning: You cannot avoid this step. If you do, you will only end up killing most of the fish you put into your tank when your fish tank cycles.
  1. Set up the tank as normal, but keep the tank only about 50-65 percent full.15
  2. Turn up the heater to 80 degrees. Make sure the heater is fully submerged in the water or it could break.
  3. Keep the aquarium light on 24 hours a day.15
  4. Add fish food or a few drops of ammonia to the tank.15 If adding ammonia, use only pure ammonia or ammonium hydroxide.
  5. If possible, obtain gravel, filter cartridges, filter media, biowheels, driftwood or rocks from an established tank and add them to your aquarium. The beneficial bacteria will be on these objects and help colonize your tank.17
  6. You can also purchase beneficial bacteria at your local pet store.19
  7. Continue adding a little bit of food or ammonia each day until you get the ammonia levels up to 5.0 ppm.15
  8. Test the ammonia and nitrite level in your water once a week. You should see the ammonia level spike first and then drop to zero. Then your nitrite level will spike and drop to zero.
  9. Once your nitrite level has dropped to zero, your tank has cycled.18
  10. Do a partial water change to help reduce the nitrate (not to be confused with nitrite) levels before adding any fish.18
  11. Fill up the rest of your tank with water and lower the temperature on your heater to match the type of fish you plan to get.
  • At this point, you will need to determine what type of fish you plan on keeping and adjust the water to fit their needs. Your pet store will be able to help guide you. You are only concerned with the hardness and pH levels of the water. Ammonia and nitrate are by-products of having fish in the tank and should be low at this point. If you need to lower or raise your pH levels or hardness, you can purchase chemicals to do so. Follow the directions on the bottle and test the water again.

Step 6: Selecting and Adding Plants and Fish

  • Once you have your water established at the right temperature, hardness and pH and you have allowed everything to run for at least a week, you can start purchasing fish for your aquarium. Typically, you should not have more than one inch of fish for every gallon of water.20 So, if you have a 20-gallon tank, the most fish you should add are 20 one-inch fish or 10 two-inch fish. Your tank will do better if you have less than this. Also, remember that your fish will grow.
  • When selecting fish, you will want to choose varieties that not only need the same type of environment (water conditions, temperature, etc.) but also that will get along. Some aggressive species do not play well with others. Angelfish, for example, are no angels when it comes to being around smaller fish. They can become extremely aggressive.21

How to Add Fish or Plants to the Aquarium

  • Once you have purchased your fish and/or plants, you may find yourself bringing them home in plastic bags. It is important that you go directly home once you have made your purchase—they cannot survive for long. Once you get them home, here is the proper way to add fish to the tank:
  1. Float the bags on the surface of the tank for about 15 minutes.
  2. Get a bucket, a net and an extra pair of hands.
  3. Hold the net over the bucket. Then, open the bag and gently pour the fish from the bag into the net. This will keep any of the water (which can contain undesirable contaminants) from entering your tank.16
  4. Immediately place the fish into the aquarium.
  • You should also float plants on top of the water to help them become acclimated to the temperature. They can then be lifted out of the bags and planted into the tank.

Conclusion

  • Fishkeeping is a fun way to decorate any room in your home or office. Although it can take some work to set up your aquarium, it will only require some basic care to maintain. The continued enjoyment you'll feel gazing at the aquatic wonderland in front of you will more than make up for it.

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References for How to Set Up a Fish Tank

  1. ↑ Aquariumsource: Proven Health Benefits from Aquariums
  2. ↑ The Tropical Tank: Beginner Tips: Buying the Tank and Equipment
  3. ↑ 3.0 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 VersAquatics: Aquarium Setup
  4. ↑ FirstTankGuide.net: Glass vs. Acrylic
  5. ↑ Petco: Aquariums & Bowls
  6. ↑ VersAquatics: Biological Filtration
  7. ↑ 7.0 7.1 7.2 7.3 7.4 VersAquatics: Chemical Filtration
  8. ↑ 8.0 8.1 8.2 Aquatics Unlimited: The Undergravel Filter Controversy
  9. ↑ 9.0 9.1 About.com: How Much do I Need?  WARNING: Pop-ups
  10. ↑ Pet University: Freshwater Aquarium Maintenance
  11. ↑ About.com: Heater Size Guide  WARNING: Pop-ups
  12. ↑ PetSmart: Little Time or Temp Digital Clock/Thermometer
  13. ↑ 13.0 13.1 The Tropical Tank: Beginner Tips: Setting Up
  14. ↑ Insanity Begins at Home: Recipe: 20 Gallon Aquarium
  15. ↑ 15.0 15.1 15.2 15.3 15.4 15.5 Bluecrayfish.com: Aquarium Cycling For Freshwater: What It Is (And Why It's Important)
  16. ↑ 16.0 16.1 Tetra: Aquarium Setup
  17. ↑ 17.0 17.1 Algone: Fishless Cycling of the Aquarium
  18. ↑ 18.0 18.1 18.2 The Tropical Tank: More on the Nitrogen Cycle: Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate
  19. ↑ Petsmart.com: Top Fin Bacteria Supplement
  20. ↑ About.com: How Many Fish?  WARNING: Pop-ups
  21. ↑ Aquarticles.com: Angelfish




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